Candlemaker's starter kit

Candlemaking

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Materials you’ll need to make candles and complete the course.

What you’ll need:

Container Candle Starter Kit:

1. Container wax - Open
2. Candle vessels - Open
3. Wicks - Open
4. Wick centering tool - Open
5. Precision scale (jewelry scale) - Open
6. Heat gun - Open
7. Melting pot (pouring pitcher) - Open
8. Wick stickers or hot glue gun - Open
9. Digital kitchen thermometer - Open
10. Spoon or spatula for stirring wax

Pillar Candle Starter Kit:

1. Pillar wax - Open
2. Silicone molds - Open
3. Melting pot (pouring pitcher) - Open
4. Spoon or spatula for stirring
5. Digital kitchen thermometer - Open
6. Needle or awl with a hook for threading the wick through the mold
7. Precision scale (jewelry scale) - Open
8. Rubber bands - Open
9. Heat gun - Open

Options:
Fragrance oil - Open
Candle dye - Open
Mica powder - Open
Safety gear: We recommend working with gloves and a mask.

Material lists and links to them will be provided separately in the “Supplier List” section. We wish you the best of luck with your purchase!

Purchasing materials: What nuances to pay attention to? - Open

Questions about the Starter Kit:

Explore the information in each topic:

1) Buying supplies: what should you look out for? - Open
2) Choosing wax for molded candles - Open
3) Choosing container wax - Open
4) Top waxes for molded candles - Open
5) Top container waxes - Open
6) Blends: what are they, and what are the benefits? - Open
7) Does wax have a shelf life? - Open
8) Cutting silicone molds - Open
9) Candle vessels: which containers are suitable? - Open
10) Choosing a wick for molded candles - Open
11) Choosing a cotton wick for container candles - Open
12) Choosing a wooden wick for container candles - Open
13) Essential oils—can they be used in candles? - Open
14) Water-based fragrances—do they work in wax? - Open
15) Water-based dyes—do they work in wax? -Open
16) Can I use wax crayons as dye? -Open
17) Can I mix dyes? - Open
18) Can I mix fragrance oils? - Open
19) Which is better: wick stickers or a hot glue gun? - Open

Container candles and pillar candles need different waxes because their goals are different. For that reason, I don’t recommend “all-purpose” waxes — they usually work so-so for both pillars and containers.

Wax selection for pillar candles - Open
Wax selection for container candles - Open

We’ve collected the top waxes for each candle type:

Top pillar waxes - Open
Top container waxes - Open

There are also waxes made from different materials:

Soy wax
Coconut wax
Olive wax
Beeswax
Rapeseed (canola), etc.

How do you decide what to buy?
Every chandlemaker has favorite waxes — there’s no single “best” group. Even within one family, waxes can be completely different: one soy wax can behave very differently from another. That’s why I don’t suggest ordering a 20-kg bag right away. Start by trying small amounts of several waxes, then choose what you like most. For an objective comparison, 1 kg of each wax is enough.

Blends: what are they and why use them? - Open
Does wax have a shelf life? - Open

WAX

Choose molds made from elastic silicone that stretches well. To pick a quality mold, always check reviews; ideally, there should be videos.

Examples of good molds are shown in this lesson: Cutting silicone molds - Open

If a mold is stiff, reviewers will usually mention it. It’s better to avoid such molds: removing the candle will be very difficult.
How do you prepare a mold before pouring? - Open

Cleaning silicone molds - Open

Silicone Mold

Any glass/ceramic/clay vessel can work for pouring wax, but there are nuances. In this lesson we explain how to choose the right vessel in detail.
Which vessels are suitable? - Open

Never use vessels made of epoxy resin or plastic. When heated, they deform and can release harmful substances.

Candle Vessels

There are several wick types. Broadly, you’ll see these main ones:

1) Twisted cotton wick
A twisted cotton cord that comes in different thicknesses. As it burns, the strands untwist and fray, which looks messy—especially in container candles. It’s cheap (a ball of cord), but tends to smoke. For very small pillar candles it can be acceptable; otherwise I don’t recommend it.

Twisted cotton wick

Braided/flat cotton wick (“wick tape”)

2) Braided/flat cotton wick (“wick tape”)
A flat, plaited cotton wick. In my experience it burns more evenly and cleanly and usually looks better in containers. It’s my go-to for most candles.
For container candles you’ll need wick tabs (sustainers) if you plan to anchor the wick in a vessel.

Waxed (paraffin-coated) braided wick

3) Waxed (paraffin-coated) braided wick
This is the same braided cotton wick but pre-coated with wax/paraffin. Works with any wax and doesn’t require extra prepping. Big plus: it’s convenient—often sold already tabbed. Brands/types you may meet: e.g., Stabilo, H-series, etc. These are great for container candles.
For pillar candles they’re usually not ideal: they often create a relatively large melt pool. Pillars also don’t use tabs, so pre-tabbed waxed wicks aren’t the best fit.

4) Wooden wick
Wood wicks crackle as they burn. They have their own quirks:

Pillar candles are rarely made with wood wicks; wood is fragile and pillars are unmolded.
They can be finicky in container candles: different waxes and fragrances may need single vs. double wood wicks. Even within “wood wicks,” suppliers vary a lot—expect to test.
Sometimes wood wicks accent the scent throw; sometimes they don’t. Testing is essential for each wax and diameter.

There are also other shapes—round, square, cross-braid, etc.—which mostly differ in construction and look.

Important: there’s no way to “guess” a wick for your wax and diameter. Always test. It’s normal that some sizes/series won’t suit your exact setup.

Wooden wick

Choosing a wick for pillar candles - Open
Choosing a cotton wick for container candles - Open
Choosing a wooden wick for container candles - Open
Do wooden wicks need soaking? - Open

Wicks

Used to keep the wick fixed in the center. The common options are metal and wooden; metal is preferable because it’s easier to clean off wax and stays looking neat longer.

If you don’t have a centering tool, you can improvise with chopsticks or cotton swabs.

Wick Centering Tool

I use a thermometer like in photo 1. There are many models, but this one is the most convenient: you can set a target temperature and it will beep when the wax reaches it.

I don’t recommend the probe thermometer shown in photo 2. It’s very popular on marketplaces, but it often gives inaccurate readings.

Thermometer

For the most part, your melting setup depends on how much you pour at once, but each option has its own comfort/nuisance trade-offs.

1. Water bath — the classic, convenient and most budget-friendly option. You can pick a pouring pitcher from 300 ml up to 1.5 L. Example - Open

2. Budget depilation wax melter - Open. In my opinion it’s even more convenient than a water bath because you can set the temperature and not worry about overheating. The downside: the standard metal cup usually has no spout, so pouring into molds/containers is awkward. If you swap the stock can for a silicone pitcher, it’s much easier to remove residual wax. The minus is that silicone absorbs odors. If you’re making unscented or massage candles, this option works great.

3. Large wax melters. If you pour 20–50 candles at a time, this is definitely your pick—you’ll save a lot of time with a big melter. If you usually melt wax for 3–5 candles at once, a large melter isn’t ideal: you’ll spend more time cleaning. Big melters aren’t very convenient to wash due to their size: unlike a small pitcher you can’t just put them in the sink—you wash them laid flat. As usual, first drain the wax, wipe out the residue with a paper towel, then wash the inside with a sponge and finish with a damp cloth. Example of a wax melter - Open

Melting equipment

The best fragrance oils (FO): CandleScience, Makesy, The Flaming Candle, Nature’s Garden, GreenWax (CIS only). Also decent: Floresense and Kema.

Can I mix fragrance oils? - Open

We don’t recommend using essential oils in candles — details here - Open

Perfume shouldn’t be used as a fragrance oil: it’s alcohol-based and won’t dissolve in wax.

Are water-based fragrances suitable for wax? - Open

Fragrance oils

You can use any oil-soluble colorants.

Both dedicated candle dyes and food colorings, as well as wax crayons, are fine—the key is that they’re oil-soluble.

Recommendations for adding colorant - Open

Can I use wax crayons as a colorant? - Open

Can I mix colorants? - Open

Are water-based colorants suitable for wax? - Open

Dyes & Pigments

How to make candles that shine when they burn? We’ll break down this question and its various nuances in this lesson.

Any candle can be made to sparkle — container candles, pillar candles, or massage candles.
To do this, we need to add a small amount of mica powder or candurin to the wax (at any temperature). We add just a little, using the tip of a spoon. There’s no exact amount. Temperature doesn’t matter for shimmer — it can be added to both solid wax that hasn’t been melted yet and to liquid wax. It’s easier to add it to liquid wax, as we can see how much the wax shines and make changes. There’s no need to heat it to high temperatures, as it doesn’t dissolve.

What’s the difference between mica powder and candurin?
In the context of candles, there’s no difference. Both work well. The only difference is that candurin is also used in food products, whereas mica is not.

Important note: You should not use a wooden wick in shimmer candles. It starts to smolder instead of burning because it gets clogged with small particles of shimmer powder.

How to find mica on marketplaces?

Search using the following queries:
• Pearl pigment
• Mica powder
• Candurin

Mica powder

Kitchen scales won’t work because it doesn’t measure down to 0.01 grams. You won’t be able to weigh fragrance oil or dye on it.

However, pocket scales are usually quite small, so it can’t be used for weighing wax. For weighing wax, you can buy scales that measure to 0.1-1 gram. You can also use kitchen scales if it is precise. Often, kitchen scales can be off by 5-10 grams.

Pocket Scale

Heat Gun – an essential tool for leveling the bottom of pillar candles and smoothing the tops of container candles.

Unfortunately, it can’t be replaced with a regular hair dryer.

A regular hair dryer blows more air than it heats. A heat gun heats more than it blows.

Using a regular hair dryer can make things worse, as it will blow the wax in all directions.

Which heat gun to choose: Almost any will work. You don’t need to buy the most powerful one. A heat gun with a temperature of up to 200°C is enough for candle making.

Heat gun usage rule: Keep the heat gun at least 20 cm away from the candle. This will prevent the wax from overheating and avoid new defects.

Heat Gun

These are used to attach the wick to the bottom of the container to prevent it from floating during the wax pour.

Which is better, wick stickers or a glue gun? - Open

Wick Stickers or Glue Gun

Used for securing silicone molds. However, it isn’t always necessary, as not all molds can be cut.

Cutting silicone molds - Открыть

It can be purchased at stationery stores or any marketplaces.

Rubber Bands

There are many types of wax:

1) Soy
2) Coconut
3) Olive
4) Beeswax
5) Palm
6) Paraffin

We’ll focus on the most popular, commonly used options—soy, coconut, olive, and beeswax (with notes on palm and paraffin).

1) Soy wax
Often considered good for scent throw and easy to source worldwide. Downsides: most prone to frosting, relatively brittle, and not ideal for complex pillars. I don’t recommend using it neat (100%).

2) Coconut wax
Similar to soy but easier to work with and naturally whiter. It has a lower melting point, so in hot climates or summer, shipping finished candles can be tricky—they may soften or melt in transit.

3) Olive wax (EcoOlive)
My favorite. Trouble-free for me with no frosting issues if you follow the process. Excellent scent throw and a bit stronger than the two above—I highly recommend it. Con: slightly more expensive than competitors.

4) Beeswax
The strongest/hardest here. If you want intricate shapes, beeswax sets the cleanest in molds. But it’s not suitable for scented candles—the natural honey note dominates. It also won’t be perfectly white (many makers buy pre-tinted beeswax; that can be convenient). Beware of fakes: sometimes paraffin tinted and scented with “honey” is sold as beeswax—buy from trusted sellers.

5) Palm wax
Usually blended with container or other waxes. Adds hardness, raises the melting point, and makes the surface feel less oily. There’s also crystalline palm wax: poured at high temperatures, it sets with a frosted/feathered pattern. You can find recipes for it in shared/bulk purchases.

6) Paraffin
Common in decorative, pillar, and botanical candles. Not eco-friendly, but widely available and inexpensive. It’s strong and non-greasy.

Bottom line
There’s no single “perfect” wax for everyone. What’s ideal for one maker may not suit another. Start with small batches, test in your molds and conditions, and choose the wax you feel most comfortable working with.

Pillar Wax

Choosing wax for pillar candles

We’ll look at the two main types of wax: soy and coconut.

Key differences:

1) Coconut wax is usually whiter; soy tends to have creamier tones.
2) Coconut has a lower melting point, so a coconut candle will generally burn a bit faster than a soy candle.
3) Soy is more often sold in pellets/flakes; coconut usually comes in blocks. This doesn’t affect performance—it's mostly a matter of convenience and preference.
4) Soy is a bit trickier to work with than coconut. Pure soy more often leaves uneven tops, so you may need a repour or to smooth with a heat gun, and you’ll need to fine-tune pour temperature more carefully. Coconut shows these issues less because it’s softer and more pliable. Still, you must dial in temps for your setup with both.
5) Soy wax is easier to source than coconut.
6) Many makers feel soy has better scent throw, but this is subjective—people perceive fragrance differently.

Container Wax

Choosing wax for container candles

Compared with container waxes, pillar waxes have fewer quality criteria. What we want from a pillar wax is that it doesn’t soften in the hand, is versatile, and isn’t fussy about frosting. Which waxes fit the bill? Let’s look at them.

Top waxes:

1) Olive wax (EcoOlive Pillar). Suitable for pillar candles and for sachets. Excellent scent throw, very easy to work with, and doesn’t leave hands oily.

2) Crystalline palm. Also works for pillars and sachets. Good throw, simple to use, and in the hand barely feels like “wax.” Thanks to its higher melting point, it’s a good option for hot regions.

3) Coconut (ES-Tart). Gave me very strong hot throw and is easy to work with, but it’s not ideal for hot climates because of its lower melt point.

4) Golden Wax 494. A pillar wax with good scent throw. Not the easiest—tends to frost.

5) Beeswax. The strongest wax; can handle very complex shapes where other waxes may fail.

These are, in my view, the best pillar waxes. If any of them aren’t available in your region, don’t worry—most waxes can be tuned with testing, and we can help you with that.

Top Pillar Waxes

How to choose wax for a pillar candle?

Candle makers work with many waxes, and everyone has favorites. Any wax has pros and cons, and each maker has different comfort criteria.

In this article I’ll cover the most popular container waxes.

1) Golden Wax 464
Perhaps the most popular soy wax on the market. Loved for its scent throw. Because it’s pure soy, it isn’t the easiest to work with—but it can be tuned.

2) Kerax Coconut Container
An excellent wax for both container and massage candles. Very soft and oily. Its scent throw is a little weaker than Golden Wax 464.

3) Tefawax 541
A budget alternative to Golden. Very good throw, but not very simple in pure form—I use it in a blend.

Other excellent waxes with nice tops and good scent throw: Nature Wax C-3, Nature Wax C-310, EcoSoya CB Advanced, EcoCoco Container.

Don’t worry if none of these are available in your region or shipping is expensive. With almost any wax you can dial in a working recipe—and we can help with that.

Top Container Waxes

Which waxes are best for a container candle?

1) Never buy anything in large quantities until you’ve tested the material yourself. Make your first purchases in minimal batches. This saves money and nerves. Once you’re sure a material works for you, then buy in bulk.

2) When choosing a wax, read reviews in the chat via search—just type its name. For example, for Golden Wax 464 you can search: “golden”, “464”, “golden wax”, “gw”, etc.

3) The pouring pot, decor, wick holders, containers, paper towels, brushes, and other consumables are where you can save. Wax, fragrance oils, wicks, and silicone molds are the items you shouldn’t skimp on.

4) Be sure to get everything from the Starter Kit at the very beginning—there’s nothing extra in it; it’s the minimum for a comfortable start.

Buying Supplies

What should you pay attention to?

What is a blend?
A blend is a mixture of waxes. There are pillar blends and container blends. You can buy them or make your own.

Why are blends popular and not worse than pure waxes?
They’re often easier to work with. Tops come out smoother with less effort, and many blends deliver scent throw comparable to single-wax formulas.

Examples of blends:
— EcoCoco (container) — olive + coconut
— EcoOlive (pillar) — olive + coconut
— Nature Wax C-6 — soy + coconut
There are many other blends on the market.

Can you make a blend yourself?
Yes, absolutely. It’s also a great way not to waste a wax you didn’t like. A few scenarios:

1) A “tricky” pure soy wax: add a fatty coconut wax. My go-to recipe:
Tefawax 541 (a demanding soy) + Kerax Coconut Container (very fatty coconut) at 70% soy / 30% coconut → a trouble-free container blend.

2) You disliked a wax: buy another wax (pillar or container) and test mix-ins.
Important: wicks for pure vs. blended waxes will differ—retest your wick.

3) No pillar wax available in your region: add stearic acid (easy to find on marketplaces) to a container wax, up to ~10%, to get a pillar-grade wax.

4) You can also add palm wax (about 15%–50%) to a container wax to make a pillar blend.
There are truly many workable options.

Keep in mind: each wax has its own boundaries and behavior. Weigh components precisely and record ratios; otherwise every batch becomes a “new wax” that will require re-wicking from scratch.

Blends

What are they and what are the benefits?

Yes—but mostly as a formality, because many countries require an expiry date. The formal term is 1–1.5 years.

When people say wax is “expired,” they usually mean it has lost properties due to improper storage.

1) Wax can dry out if left open because the oils evaporate.
2) Properties also degrade if stored in direct sunlight, in heat, or near heaters. The optimal storage temperature for candles and wax is up to 25 °C.

If you follow these storage rules, you can use wax for a very long time.

Shelf Life

Does wax have a shelf life?

Cutting Molds

Which molds can be cut, how deep should the cut be, and what should you cut with?

Silicone molds are usually either sold pre-slit or don’t need a slit at all. Do not cut thin-silicone molds: you won’t be able to clamp them securely with rubber bands, the wax will leak, and the mold will be ruined.

But if the mold is made of thick silicone, a slit is often needed.

Many thick molds arrive with a slit, but sometimes it’s too short or not fully cut through. In that case, you can easily finish the slit yourself with a knife.

Important points:

1) Use a very sharp blade so the cut is clean. A dull blade will tear the silicone and the seam will look messy. A regular knife, a laser-sharpened knife, or a utility blade will work—as long as it’s very sharp.

2) Make the slit on the back/side. If you place it on the front, it will show on the finished piece and look unattractive. It’s best to pour at least once first and decide which side is the “front,” then put the slit on the least visible side.

3) Before adding any extra slit, pour a candle in the mold at least once—you may find the mold doesn’t need an additional cut at all.

How to cut: hold the knife and gently saw forward–back. I personally like laser-sharpened knives—they make a smooth, precise cut.

Example of thin-silicone molds (not recommended).

Example of thick-silicone molds (recommended).

Short answer: almost any, but each type has its nuances. Let’s look at the details.

For beginners who don’t yet have much testing/wicking experience, it’s best to use thick-walled glass (≥0.3 cm / ≈3 mm). Such jars are less likely to crack if overheated.

What about goblets or thin glass?

They can certainly be used for candles, but keep in mind:

1) Proper testing is essential. During tests, run a full 4-hour burn (the maximum single burn session) to check safety.

2) Always inform customers about safety rules:
a) do not burn a candle for more than 4 hours at a time;
b) trim the wick to 0.5 cm (¼") before each lighting so the flame isn’t too large.

3) An alternative approach is to choose a wick that doesn’t melt the wax all the way to the walls. This won’t fit every vessel. The melt pool should still be at least 5–6 cm wide; otherwise the scent throw will be very weak.

Candle Vessels

Which vessels are suitable for container candles?

Wick Selection
How do you choose the right wick for pillar (molded) candles?

In this article we’ll figure out how to choose a wick for pillar candles.
Wicking a pillar is different from wicking a container candle—the goals are not the same. With pillars you’re not chasing a full, wall-to-wall melt pool inside a jar; you’re choosing how the candle should behave in open air.

First, decide what you want the candle to do:
— melt down completely; or
— keep a “tunnel” and melt only in the center; or
— something in between.

Let’s look at the two main scenarios.

1) The candle melts completely
Choose a larger wick. If the mold is wide or overall large, you may even need multiple wicks.

2) The wax does not spread to the edges (controlled tunneling)
Choose a smaller wick that’s intentionally undersized for the candle’s diameter. Be sure to test so it doesn’t soot or overheat the wax.

If you want a special effect, describe it in the chat—other experienced makers can suggest a wicking approach.

When can’t a wick give a full melt to the edge?
— Irregular shapes (e.g., a torso) or very narrow sections. If the wick is too small, the candle will stop melting and leave thick walls; if too large, it may deform the piece. Such forms need careful tests and, sometimes, a compromise.
— Very slim pillars: by design they are small in diameter, so a true edge-to-edge melt pool is unrealistic. For these, choose a wick that gives a stable flame (about a 1–2 cm pool is normal for a slim pillar).

One more important point: use wick **without** a metal sustainer/tab for pillar molds.
Container “pre-tabbed” wicks are meant for jars.
1) They’re hard to thread through a mold.
2) The metal tab can leave a cavity or mark and complicate unmolding.
3) Pillar wicks are sold on spools specifically for molds—choose by diameter and test.

Wick Selection

How do you choose the right wick for pillar (molded) candles?

The main goal in container candles is to melt the wax to the glass wall.
If the wick is too small, wax will never reach the edges and you’ll get tunneling.
If the wick is too large, the glass may overheat and the candle can soot.

How to pick a wick

1) Measure your jar’s inner diameter at the widest point. For example, if it’s 6 cm, we’ll look up wicks that suit a 6 cm jar.

2) Use a wick chart. Find your wax and jar diameter, then note several candidate wicks (sizes/series) suggested for that combo.

Open the tables — Open

How to read the charts

— Wax types are listed in the left column.
— Jar diameters are listed along the top.
— Cells show suggested wick series/sizes.
Always select several nearby sizes for testing; each system is different, and exact matches are not guaranteed.

What if your wax or jar isn’t in the chart?

— Choose a chart for a similar wax (e.g., another soy or coconut container wax) and start from those sizes.
— You don’t have to buy the exact brand shown in a specific chart. For the same wax/diameter you can try analogous series from common families such as CD, ECO, HTP, LX, RRD, or STABILO. Test and compare.

How many wicks to buy for the first test?

— Don’t buy every size. Take a small “ladder” around the suggested size (for instance: one size down, the suggested size, and one–two sizes up). That’s usually enough to find a match quickly.

How to know the wick is right

— The melt pool should reach the glass edge within about 40–60 minutes (depending on your wax and FO).
— The flame is stable, without smoke/soot or a big “mushroom.”
— The jar is hot but still safe to handle.
— Melt-pool depth at the end of a session doesn’t exceed ~1 cm.
— Trim the wick to 0.5 cm (¼") before every burn; test under the same trim.

Cotton Wick

How do you choose a cotton wick for container candles?

Choosing a Wooden Wick

How do you choose a wooden wick?

How to choose a wooden wick for a container candle

Approximate width-to-vessel recommendations:
1) 8 mm — for vessels 3–5 cm in diameter
2) 12.5 mm — for vessels 5–7 cm
3) 14 mm — for vessels 6–8 cm

How to use these numbers in practice

Let’s take a marketplace example. Many listings don’t show melt-pool diameters (unlike candle-supply shops that often have charts). Suppose we find wooden wicks on a marketplace and open a listing. In the specs we see “13 × 140.” The first number is the **wick width** in millimeters; the second is the **height**. Height isn’t critical—you can always trim it—but width is the key value to match to your **vessel**.

Measure your vessel’s inner diameter. For example, if the vessel is 6 cm, the table suggests a 12–13 mm wooden wick. Order that size and test.

If the wicks arrive and test small, don’t rush to reorder—try **doubling** them: cut two equal strips and insert both into one wooden-wick clip, then retest.

If doubling doesn’t solve it, order the next width up and test again.

How to store wooden wicks

Store wooden wicks strictly in a dry place. Otherwise even solid wicks can develop cracks. Keep them in a regular zip-lock bag with a silica-gel packet that absorbs moisture (easy to buy on any marketplace).

There’s no single opinion among candle makers: some are for it, others against. It’s your choice, but consider these points and risks:

1) Essential oils are highly volatile—they evaporate quickly. You won’t get the same scent throw as with candle-specific fragrance oils.

2) Some essential oils can be irritating or harmful and may release undesirable compounds when burned.

3) Essential oils are flammable. If the oil isn’t properly incorporated into the wax, there’s a risk of surface ignition (flashover): the whole wax surface can catch fire instead of just the wick, the vessel may crack, and the fire can spread.

4) Cost: high-quality essential oils are usually more expensive than fragrance oils designed for candles.

Essential Oils

Can they be used in candles?

No—they aren’t suitable for wax. Since wax is oil-based, only oil-soluble additives will work.

Water-soluble or alcohol-based fragrances won’t dissolve in wax; they’ll separate and float as foreign patches.

Water-Based Fragrances

Are they suitable for wax?

No—they aren’t suitable for wax. Since wax is oil-based, only oil-soluble colorants will work.

Water-soluble or alcohol-based dyes won’t dissolve in wax; they’ll separate and show up as foreign streaks or blotches.

Water-Based Dyes

Are they suitable for wax?

Yes, you can—just stay within the maximum recommended load and don’t exceed it.

Mixing Fragrance Oils

Can you mix fragrances?

Yes—you can, as long as you stay within the maximum recommended colorant load and don’t skip testing.

To save wax and dye, run tests in small molds—for example, for wax melts or sachets.

Mixing Dyes

Can you mix dyes?

Yes—you can, because crayons are oil-soluble.

The challenge is dosing: with crayons you don’t have precise usage rates. If you exceed a safe load, frosting is more likely.

Test plan:
1) Start with a very small load — about 0.1%.
2) If all looks good, increase stepwise: 0.3%, 0.5%, 1%, 2% (or until you reach the shade you want).
3) Remember: higher colorant loads often require a larger wick. Once you settle on a color, re-test your wicking — the wick that worked at a lower load may no longer be suitable.

Wax Crayons

Can you use wax crayons as dye?

What’s actually better? Let’s break it down.

Pros of stickers
• Very easy to use.
• No extra equipment needed.

Cons of stickers
• Sometimes arrive dried out; the adhesive can fail while you’re centering the wick.
• If you pour at high temperatures (some waxes prefer a hotter pour), the sticker can loosen and lift.

Pros of hot glue
• More reliable than stickers: bonds firmly.
• No “drying-out” issue with the adhesive over time.

Cons of hot glue
• Requires extra equipment — a hot-glue gun.
• Slightly less convenient; takes a bit of practice.

My take: I’ve used both and prefer the glue gun. Since the main task is to secure the wick, hot glue clearly wins.

Securing the Wick

What’s better: wick stickers or a hot-glue gun?