What you’ll need:

1) Container wax
2) Wick (cotton or wooden)
3) Candle container (wooden bowl, coconut shell)
4) Fragrance oil for candles (optional)
5) Thermometer (probe)
6) Melting setup (two pitchers: one for melting wax, one for the double boiler) or a wax melter
7) Dye (optional)
8) Shimmer/mica (optional)
9) Wick centering tool (chopsticks, cotton swabs)
10) Spoon or spatula for stirring
11) Wick stickers or a hot-glue gun
12) Jewelry scale
13) Heat gun


More about the tools can be found in the “Starter Kit” lesson.

СANDLE IN NATURAL CONTAINERS

In this lesson, we’ll go through the process of making candles in natural containers.
Watch the coconut version — Open

MORE ABOUT MATERIALS

1) Coconut. The key things to pay attention to:
– First, the bottom edge of the shell should be sanded flat so it stands stably on a surface.
– Second, the inside must be lacquered; otherwise the wax will seep through. If your coconut is DIY or bought without a “lacquered” note, you’ll need to lacquer it yourself. Any heat-resistant varnish will do. It’s important to choose a heat-resistant one because the candle will heat the container and the coconut will be exposed to temperature.
There’s one more nuance — smooth shell or with coir (fibers). If the outside is smooth, you should also apply varnish on the exterior for wear resistance; if it has coir, you can skip this step.

2) Wood. Wooden bowls/forms are usually sold already treated; if not, they require the same treatment as the coconut.

You can buy coconuts and wooden containers on marketplaces or from independent makers.

Let’s start making:

STEP 1. PREPARATION

1) Calculate the required amount of wax and fragrance for a container candle.

Wax & fragrance calculator - Open

If you want to add a fragrance, use no more than 2% of the total candle mass.
Be careful with fragrance: if you overdo it, you can get a burn.

2) Check the container for cleanliness.

The container must be completely dry and free of dust.

3) Check whether the container is sealed/treated.

If it isn’t, apply a coat of varnish.

STEP 2. MELT THE WAX

1) Put a pot of water on the stove and bring it to a boil.

2) Add the wax to a melting pitcher.

The amount was calculated in Step 1.

3) Place the pitcher into a double boiler.

Reduce the heat so there’s only gentle steam; do not allow any water to get into the wax.

Double-boiler tips - Open

4) Insert a thermometer into the pitcher and wait until the wax is fully melted.

Step 3. Adding fragrance

1. Bring the wax to its maximum heating temperature and add the fragrance.

If your wax’s maximum heating temperature is 85°C, add the fragrance in the 80–85°C range.

How to add fragrance without removing the wax from the heat - Open

What is the maximum heating temperature and how to find it - Open

If you want to add dye, do it at this stage.

Recommendations for adding dye- Open

2. Maintain the maximum heating temperature for 5–10 minutes.

The time can be longer; it depends on your fragrance. For example, CandleScience fragrances may need 5–7 minutes, while Kema may need up to 15 minutes at high temperature.

For instance, if your wax’s maximum heating temperature is 85°C, keep it within 80–85°C.

3. Mix until uniform.

Stir until the fragrance is fully dissolved in the wax. Stir slowly and steadily with a spoon or spatula (not with a thermometer) so the fragrance incorporates better.

Do not whisk or aerate the wax. That triggers wax crystallization, which will show up as an unattractive white bloom on the candle.

4. Let the wax cool to the pouring temperature.

How to determine the pouring temperature for your wax - Open

Step 4. Wick preparation

1. Wick preparation

Let’s look at several types of wicks:

1) Pre-waxed wick
A ready-made pre-waxed wick like Stabila. Nothing else is needed, since it already comes inserted into a wick holder and waxed.

2) Wick on a spool + separate wick holder

Prime the wick with wax so it burns better. Simply dip it into melted wax, let the excess drip off, and set it aside until it hardens. Then fix it into the wick holder.

Is it necessary to wax a wick? - Open

3) Wooden wick

Trim it to the container’s height and secure it in a wick clip/holder.
If the wick is double or has a booster, fasten it with a clip or clothespin.

Do you need to soak a wooden wick? - Open

2. Attach the wick to the vessel

You can do this with adhesive wick stickers or a hot-glue gun.
Which is better to use, stickers or a hot-glue gun? - Open

3. Center the wick

A cotton wick must be centered; a wooden wick doesn’t need this.

1. Нагреваем тару феном

Чтобы избежать резкого перепада температур.

2. Остуженный до температуры заливки воск заливаем в тару

Определение оптимальной температуры заливки - Открыть

Заливать нужно медленно, тонкой струйкой, чтобы снизить количество пузырьков воздуха в воске.

Если у вас деревянный фитиль, обильно обливаем его воском. С хлопковым фитилем этого делать не нужно, так как он уже пропитан воском.

Step 5. Pouring the wax

1. Warm the container with a heat gun

To avoid a sharp temperature drop.

2. Pour the wax—cooled to its pouring temperature—into the container

Determining the optimal pouring temperature - Open

Pour slowly in a thin stream to reduce the amount of air bubbles in the wax.

If you’re using a wooden wick, coat it generously with wax as you pour. With a cotton wick this isn’t necessary, as it’s already impregnated with wax.

STEP 6. WAX SETTING

1) Leave the candle for 24 hours so it fully sets and hardens.

Start with a longer time and reduce gradually. This helps you determine the minimum setting time for your wax and conditions.

Wax setting time - Open


2) Avoid drafts and sudden room-temperature changes.

While the candle is setting, keep the ambient temperature stable to prevent rapid cooling and shrinkage.

Setting conditions - Open

Can you put candles in the fridge to speed setting? - Open