ICEBERG CANDLE

In this lesson, we’ll go through the process of making an “Iceberg” candle.

What you’ll need:

1) Gel wax
2) “Iceberg” silicone mold
3) Zinc-core wick for gel (cotton/wooden)
4) Thermometer
5) Melting setup: double boiler (one pot for water, one for gel) or a thermostatic wax melter; plus a pouring pot
6) Dye (optional)
7) Rubber bands (if your silicone mold is split/cut)
8) Needle/awl
9) Wick centering tool (or chopsticks/cotton swabs)
10) Spoon or spatula for stirring
11) Jewelry scale

LET’S START MAKING:

STEP 1. PREPARATION

1) Calculate the required amount of gel for the candle.

Pillar candle wax calculator - Open

For planning, always measure by weight. Do not assume equal densities for gels and waxes; weigh the finished piece for exact grams.

2) Check the silicone mold for cleanliness.

It’s best to do this in advance of the pour. The mold should be completely dry before you begin.

STEP 2. MELTING THE GEL

1) Put a pot of water on the stove and bring it to a boil.

2) Add the gel to your melting pitcher.

You calculated the amount in Step 1.

3) Place the pitcher with gel into a double boiler.

Reduce the heat so there’s only a little steam, and don’t let any water get into the gel.

4) Insert a thermometer into the gel and wait until it fully melts.

If you’re not using dye, heat only to the temperature at which the gel becomes fully liquid.

5) Add dye if desired.
If you’re using dye, heat the gel to its maximum working temperature.
(Typical pour temperature for candle gel: 95–105 °C; maximum heat: 105–110 °C.)

Tip: You can add the dye to the solid gel before the water bath, but do not stir at that stage to avoid introducing air (bubbles). Once the gel is fully liquid, stir the dye in gently and slowly. Do not whip the gel to avoid aeration.

Step 3. Prepare the wick and mold

1) Cut the wick to length.
Measure the height of the mold and cut the wick with a small margin.

2) Do NOT wax the wick.
Wax can melt in hot gel and cause haze, which is especially noticeable in clear, un-dyed gel candles.

3) Thread the wick through the mold.
Use a needle with a wide eye so you don’t damage the silicone mold.

4) Strap the mold with rubber bands and align the seams (if the mold is split).
If you use too few bands, gel can leak through gaps during the pour. If you overtighten,
the bands can deform the mold and the candle may come out crooked.

Step 4. Pour the gel into the mold.

1) Bring the gel to pouring temperature.

If your gel is hotter than needed, let it cool; if the temperature is already correct, you can proceed.

2) Warm the mold with a heat gun.

Pre-heating the mold helps the gel set more evenly and prevents a sharp temperature drop.

Don’t skip this step—gel is poured at fairly high temperatures.

3) Pour the gel into the mold.

To reduce trapped air, pour along the inner wall rather than straight into the center.
This helps the gel spread more evenly throughout the mold.

STEP 5 — GEL SETTING

1) Leave the piece for 6–8 hours (specifically for the “Iceberg” mold) so the candle fully solidifies and strengthens.

Start with a longer time and gradually reduce it. This way you’ll find the minimum time your candle needs to set in your conditions and with your gel.

2) Avoid drafts and sharp room-temperature changes.

While the candle is setting, it’s important not to let the ambient temperature fluctuate or the gel set too quickly.

STEP 6 — REMOVING THE CANDLE

1) Remove the rubber bands from the mold, if your mold uses them.

2) Carefully take the candle out of the mold.

3) Dip the candle in water.
Pour water into a glass, turn the candle upside down, and set it in the glass.
You can add a few drops of fragrance oil on top, but don’t drip too close to the wick.

4) Enjoy the finished result.
Wishing you the perfect candle!