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What you’ll need:

1) Gel wax
2) Zinc-core wick for gel (cotton/wooden as alternatives)
3) Heat-safe glass jar (vessel)
4) Fragrance oil for candles (optional)
5) Non-flammable, non-porous embeds (glass pebbles, shells, stones, metal charms)
6) Probe thermometer (avoid IR)
7) Melting setup: double boiler (one pot for water, one for gel) or a thermostatic wax melter; plus a pouring pot
8) Dye (optional)
9) Wick centering tool (stir sticks, cotton swabs, etc.)
10) Spoon or spatula for stirring
11) Wick stickers or a hot glue gun
12) Jewelry scale
GEL CANDLE

In this lesson, we’ll cover the process of making a gel candle.
Watch the version with gel walls - Open

Let’s start making:
STEP 1. PREPARATION
1) Calculate the required amounts of wax and gel for the candle.

Container-candle wax calculator - Open

For percentage planning, measure by weight (e.g., 30% gel + 70% wax by weight). Do not assume equal densities.

2. Find the maximum fragrance load for your wax.

What if the manufacturer doesn’t provide a fragrance-load value? - Open

3. Calculate how much fragrance to add to the wax.

Fragrance calculator for container candles - Open

Do NOT add fragrance oil to the gel. Measure the fragrance based only on the wax amount.

4. Check the container for cleanliness.

It’s best to do this in advance of pouring so the container has time to dry completely.
Candle Wax Calculator
How to calculate how much wax you need for a candle?
Here’s how to calculate the amount of wax you need.
We’ll use a calculator app. I use “Candle Calc” (shown in the App Store as “Candle Maker Calc”).
Download for iOS

There are also various online calculators, which are easy to find.

(Video tutorial)
1) Open the app and go to the Wax weight tab (see the tabs at the bottom).
How to use Candle Calc
First, let’s cover container candles.

3) The Wax field will auto-calculate the wax amount.
If you’re making an unscented container candle, you’re done—melt that amount of wax.

2) Enter the container capacity in the Vessel fill field (mL).
If you’re unsure, weigh the empty container on a pocket scale, fill it to the brim with water, then weigh again. The difference in grams ≈ milliliters.

5) Enter the Vessel count if you’re making multiple candles.
For example, enter 10 to see how much wax and fragrance oil you need for ten candles.

4) For scented candles, enter the FO % (fragrance-oil percentage).
The app will show two values: Wax for the batch (how much wax to melt) and FO for the batch (how much fragrance oil to add).

What about pillar candles?

The calculator may be inaccurate for pillar candles because it assumes some headspace instead of filling the container to the rim. If you measure with water and then weigh the candle, you’ll only get an approximate value—this matters when using colorants, where the exact fill affects shade.

For pillar candles, it’s safer to melt 15–30% more wax than needed, with a generous margin. After the candle cools and hardens, weigh it to get the exact amount of wax used in grams—this will give you the correct amount for your next batch.
Every wax has its own maximum fragrance load, which you normally get from the manufacturer. It’s usually 8–10%, sometimes 12%. Choose the dose based on how strong you want the scent to be. I recommend at least 5–6%; otherwise the throw will be barely noticeable. If your fragrance oil is very strong, you don’t have to go to the maximum.

In any case, test each fragrance with your wax and your intended dosage. Only testing will show the ideal ratio for your combo.

If the seller provides no guidance, run trials. As mentioned, typical loads are 8–10%, sometimes 12%. Start lower—try 8% FO. Then try 10%. Watch how the wax behaves—whether frosting or other issues appear. Going higher usually doesn’t make the scent much stronger; testing is how you verify that.

In my case, my wax’s maximum additive load is 10%. I use 8% fragrance oil. With my waxes and oils, I don’t need more—the optimal scent strength is already reached at that dosage.
Fragrance Load

What to do if the manufacturer doesn’t specify a max fragrance load?

STEP 2. MELTING THE GEL

1) Put a pot of water on the stove and bring it to a simmer (double boiler).

2) Pour the gel into a melting pitcher.

The amount was calculated in Step 1.

3) Set the pitcher with gel into the water bath.

Reduce the stove heat so there’s only a little steam. Do not let any water get into the gel.

4) Place a thermometer in the pitcher and wait until the gel is fully melted.

If you’re NOT using colorant, heat only to the point where the gel becomes completely liquid.

5) (Optional) Add colorant.

• If working with colorant, heat to the gel’s maximum working temperature.
• Typical pour temperature for gel wax is 95–105 °C.
• Maximum heating temperature is 105–110 °C.

You can add the colorant and let it warm/melt together with the gel before putting the pitcher into the bath, but do NOT stir at this early stage—this helps avoid entraining air (bubbles).

Once the gel is fully liquid, add the pre-measured colorant and stir slowly and gently.
Never whisk or beat the gel—do not incorporate air.
Step 3. WICK PREPARATION



1) Pre-waxed wick
A ready-to-use waxed wick (e.g., Stabilo). Nothing to do here — it already comes in a sustainer (wick tab) and is waxed.

2) Wick on a spool + separate sustainer
Prime the wick in wax so it burns better. Dip it in melted wax, let the excess drip off, and lay it aside until it sets. Then crimp it into the sustainer.

3) Wooden wick
Trim it to the vessel height and secure it in the wick clip/holder.

ADHERING THE WICK TO THE JAR

You can attach the wick with adhesive wick stickers or a hot-glue gun.

CENTERING THE WICK

Use a centering tool to hold the wick in place.
• Cotton wicks: centering is required.
• Wooden wicks in a metal clip are usually self-centering; otherwise center as needed.
Step 4. Pouring the Gel



1) Place the decor on the bottom of the vessel.

2) Slightly pre-warm the jar from the outside with a heat gun (avoid blowing the decor).

This helps avoid a sharp temperature drop.

3) Pour the gel cooled to its pouring temperature into the vessel.

• If the gel is hotter than needed, cool it first; if the temperature is right, proceed.
• Don’t pour at a lower-than-recommended temperature: the gel will be too thick and won’t flow into all areas (especially around flowers/decor).

4) Let the gel base set (recommend leaving it for 2–3 days so all air can escape).

At this stage, you may notice air bubbles in the gel. That’s okay — they can be corrected later once the gel has fully set.