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Pillar candles
In this lesson, we’ll walk through the process of making a pillar candle.
Watch the archived version - Open
What you’ll need:

1) Pillar wax
2) Silicone mold
3) Wick
4) Thermometer
5) Wax-melting setup: a double boiler (one pot for water, one for wax) or a wax melter.
6) Fragrance oil (optional)
7) Dye (optional)
8) Rubber bands
9) Needle/awl
10) Wick centering tool, or skewers/cotton swabs
11) Spoon or spatula for stirring
12) Precision scale (jeweler’s scale)

For a detailed tools list, see the lesson “Starter Kit.”
Questions about Pillar Candles:

Explore the information in each topic:

1) Top pillar waxes - Open
2) How to choose a wick for a pillar candle - Open
3) Adding fragrance to pillar candles — does it make sense? - Open
4) Calculating wax for a pillar candle - Open
5) How to prep the mold before pouring? - Open
6) Cleaning silicone molds - Open
7) Cutting molds - Open
8) Water-bath tips - Open
9) Can you melt wax in a microwave? - Open
10) Numbers on the label: melting point, heating & pour temps—how to use them - Open
11) Fragrance-addition guidelines - Open
12) Dye-addition guidelines - Open
13) Wick hole in a silicone mold: how and with what to make it - Open
14) How to smooth/align mold seams - Open
15) Repour / top-off recommendations - Open
16) Wax setting time - Open
17) Conditions for proper setting/curing - Open
18) Can you put candles in the fridge to speed up setting? - Open
19) Candle packaging & storage - Open
20) When can you light the candle? - Open

Let’s start making:
Step 1. Prep - Open
Step 2. Melting the wax - Open
Step 3. Preparing the mold - Open
Step 4. Pouring wax into the mold - Open
Step 5. Curing (setting) the wax - Open
Step 6. Demolding & quality check - Open
Pillar candle troubleshooting - Open
STEP 1. PREP
1. Calculate the amount of wax you need

Wax calculation for a pillar candle - Open

2. Check that the silicone mold is clean

Do this in advance so the mold has time to dry before pouring.

How to prep a mold for pouring - Open

Cleaning silicone molds - Open

3. Cut the mold if needed

Cutting molds - Open
STEP 2. MELTING THE WAX
1. Put a pot of water on the stove and bring it to a gentle simmer.

2. Pour the weighed wax into the melting vessel. The exact amount was calculated in Step 1.

3. Place the vessel with wax into the water bath. The steam should rise, but not too actively, so that water doesn’t get into the wax (otherwise bubbles will form and you’ll have to remelt the candle to fix them).

Recommendations for the water bath - Open

Can I melt wax in a microwave? - Open

4. Insert a thermometer into the wax in the vessel and wait until the wax is completely liquefied.

• If you are working without dyes and fragrance oils, it is enough to melt the wax to a liquid state.
• If you plan to add fragrance and/or dye, heat the wax up to the maximum heating temperature recommended for your wax.

5. Add the fragrance and the dye if desired, then stir thoroughly.

If you are working with dye and fragrance oil, heat the wax to the maximum heating temperature recommended for your wax.

What is the maximum heating temperature and how do I know it? - Open

How to add fragrance oil - Open

Recommendations for adding dye - Open
STEP 3. WICK AND MOLD PREPARATION

1. Cut the required length of wick

Measure the mold height and cut the wick with a small extra length.

2. Dip the wick in wax and let it harden

The wick should be soaked in wax to help it burn better. Simply dip it into the melted wax, let the excess wax drip off, and set the wick aside until it hardens.

Is it necessary to dip the wick in wax? - Open

3. Thread the wick through the mold

I recommend using a large-eye needle or an awl—these let you work without damaging the mold.

Wick hole in a silicone mold: how and with what to make it? - Open

4. Band the mold and align the seam (for slit molds)

If you skimp on rubber bands, wax can leak through gaps during the pour; if you over-tighten them, the mold can deform and the candle will cure crooked.

How to straighten/align the mold seam? - Open
STEP 4. POURING WAX INTO THE MOLD


1. Bring the wax to its pouring temperature

If your wax is hotter than needed, let it cool; if it’s short by a few degrees, you can just let it sit.

Finding the optimal pouring temperature - Open

2. Pre-warm the mold with a heat gun

Warming the mold a little helps the wax set more evenly and prevents a sharp temperature drop.

3. Pour the wax into the mold

To reduce air bubbles, pour along the inner wall rather than into the center so the wax distributes more evenly. Don’t fill to the very top right away—leave a little space so it’s easier to tap the mold.

4. Tap the mold

This helps release any remaining air bubbles in the wax.

5. Do a top-up pour (repour)

Fill the mold to the top so the wax doesn’t end up touching the wick centering tool (sticks).

Repour recommendations - Open

STEP 5. SETTING THE WAX


1. Leave the piece for 24 hours so the candle fully sets and hardens.

Start with a longer time and gradually shorten it. This way you’ll learn the minimum set time for your conditions, your wax, and your specific mold (the setting time varies with mold volume, too).

Wax setting time - Open

2. Avoid drafts and sudden room-temperature changes.

While the candle is setting, it’s important to prevent temperature swings and overly rapid cooling of the wax.

Ideal conditions for setting - Open

Can you put candles in the refrigerator to speed things up? - Open

STEP 6. DEMOLDING & QUALITY CHECK




1. Remove the rubber bands from the mold, if your mold uses them.

2. Carefully demold the candle from the mold.

3. Inspect the candle for defects (chips, frosting, air bubbles, uneven base, etc.).

More about each defect and how to fix it — Open (see the Troubleshooting section).

4. You’ve got your finished piece!

Wishing you the perfect candle ✨

Packaging and storage - Open

When can you light the candle? - Open
TROUBLESHOOTING: PILLAR CANDLES

1) Frosting
White bloom on the candle — what causes frosting and how to get rid of it?
Go to section
2) Uneven base
Uneven base on a pillar candle: causes and how to level it?
Go to section
3) The candle broke
The candle cracked/broke — can it be remelted?
Go to section
4) Holes on the candle
Holes on the candle: what causes them and how to eliminate them?
Go to section
6) Seam on the candle
A seam is visible on the candle — how to smooth it out?
5) Shrinkage during setting
Go to section
Wax shrinkage while setting: causes and how to fix it?
Go to section
8) Candle sheds in chunks
Candle sheds in chunks while burning — is this normal?
Go to section
7) Over-tightened wick
Over-tightened wick — what’s the risk and how to do it correctly?
Go to section
9) Wax cracks in the mold
Wax is cracking inside the mold during setting — what should you do?
Go to section
Frosting is the white bloom that appears on the wax surface. It can show up on both container and pillar candles. Below are the common causes and how to address them.

MAIN CAUSES

1) Excessive additive load.
This primarily concerns fragrance oils and colorants. When you push the load toward the maximum (or above it), frosting is more likely. Even if a datasheet says “up to 10%,” that doesn’t mean you should always pour the maximum, especially with strong or complex fragrances. If frosting appears, step the dosage down and retest. Also remember that different suppliers’ fragrances behave differently; switching suppliers can sometimes solve it.

2) Incorrect temperature regime.
Frosting is often the result of temperature mistakes.

— Overheating the wax.
Too high a heat can kick off crystallization, which shows up as white bloom. Lower your maximum heating temperature in small steps (≈5 °C / 10 °F) and observe the result.

— Pouring too cold.
Very cool wax poured into a cool mold/vessel increases the risk of frosting. Lightly warm the wax and/or the mold.

— Large temperature gap between wax and environment.
Very hot wax in a cold room is a bad combination. Stabilize the ambient temperature.

— Cold surfaces and drafts.
Stone countertops and drafts accelerate crystallization. Place the vessel on a trivet/rack and eliminate airflow while the candle sets.

WHAT TO DO

Option 1: Camouflage.
You can hide the bloom with acrylic paints, mica powders, dry pigments, glitter, etc.

Option 2: Fix the cause and prevent it.
• Reduce temperatures step by step and repeat tests. Do not exceed the recommended maximum heating temperature for your wax, and find the pour temperature that works with your wax–fragrance combo (it’s not always the highest temperature).
• Follow your specific wax’s handling guidelines: avoid temperature spikes; heat gently and in a controlled way.
• Lightly warm the mold (a heat gun or hair dryer works) so you’re not pouring “hot into cold.”
• Keep the room around 21–25 °C (70–77 °F), avoid drafts, and don’t set candles on cold surfaces—use a rack or trivet.

With these adjustments, frosting is usually eliminated entirely or reduced to an acceptable level.

Frosting (White Bloom)
White bloom on a candle — what causes it and how to get rid of it?

First, let’s understand why dips and hollows appear.
This is called wax shrinkage and it’s a normal phenomenon. We can influence only the scale of the shrinkage. The usual causes are: pouring at too high a temperature or cooling that’s too fast/uneven. In that case, lower your pour temperature. A small shallow dent is acceptable.

How to fix it?
• If the shrinkage is only superficial or has pulled slightly under the wick, a top‑off (second pour) will help.
• For pronounced craters, top off with wax a little hotter than your regular pour so the new layer fuses with the old one. If needed, chill the mold in a bowl of cool water first so the body of the candle firms up; then do the top‑off. If you pour very hot wax straight into a still‑warm cavity, it may set but not bond well.

What can help you get a perfectly flat base:
1) Paper towels — to gently warm and soften the surface, smoothing minor irregularities.
2) A knife — to shave off obvious high spots and level the bottom.
3) A candle plane/scraper or a simple grater — to evenly true the base after demolding. Work carefully; the goal is to remove just a thin layer so the candle stands flat.

If the sinkhole pulled down around the wick, warming the area with a heat gun/hair dryer helps. Melt just the top skin and let it self‑level.

Wax sets while it’s still inside the mold, and sometimes the candle is still a bit soft for a long time. If the base is uneven after demolding, you can lightly warm the surface with a heat gun and then true it with a scraper or knife; a lint‑free cloth also helps for final buffing.

Sometimes the wick hole at the base makes the candle rock slightly or you simply don’t like that it’s visible. In either case, you can hide it neatly.

How to hide the wick on a pillar (molded) candle?
Do it during the top‑off. When you pour the candle, don’t fill to the very top; leave a small amount of wax in the melting vessel for later. After the candle fully sets, trim the wick flush with the base, then do the final top‑off to close the hole and finish the bottom.

UNEVEN BOTTOM

Causes and how to level it? Wick at the base

Yes, absolutely.

But there is one caveat: as a rule of thumb, you shouldn’t remelt wax more than twice. Different waxes react differently to remelting — some can start behaving unpredictably after the first remelt, while others handle a third remelt just fine. It all depends on the specific wax you’re using.

BROKEN CANDLE

The candle broke — can it be remelted?

Sometimes, after unmolding a candle, you may notice bubbles, streaks, or “channels” left by bubbles. This is usually caused by a low pour temperature and/or a cold mold. Slightly raise the pour temperature and, on most candles, the streaks and bubbles will disappear.

When is raising the temperature not the right solution?

• When your wax tends to develop frosting. In that case, thoroughly warm the mold with a heat gun so the wax will not crystallize on contact with the mold and set too quickly.
• Bubbles can also appear if the mold wasn’t tapped/knocked enough to release trapped air. Don’t skip this step—lightly tap the mold to help bubbles rise.
• Bubbles are also common with complex molds that have sharp/straight corners. In such spots, tapping alone often won’t help—the air pocket may not escape.

What you should do:

1) Pour a very small amount of wax into the mold. Tilt and rotate the mold, holding it almost horizontally, so the wax reaches and wets the problematic areas.
2) If the mold is thin, pour wax until about halfway up—or at least right up to the corner where the problem occurs. Then gently pinch/squeeze the mold at that point to help any bubbles escape from the trapped air pocket.

HOLES ON THE CANDLE

Holes on a candle: causes and how to fix them?

First, let’s figure out why pits and dents appear. This is called wax shrinkage and it’s a normal phenomenon. We can only influence how pronounced it is. Large dents usually appear when the pour temperature is too high—lowering it helps. A slight amount of shrinkage is normal.

How to fix it

If the shrinkage doesn’t go under the wick and is only on the surface, a top-off (second pour) will do the job. Pour the wax at a temperature slightly higher than usual so the old wax “fuses” with the new. Do the top-off without removing the candle from the mold, wait for it to set, and only then demold. If you overfill, simply trim the excess with a knife when the wax has begun to set but is still a bit soft. It’s best to do this while the candle is still in the mold.

If the shrinkage extends under the wick, it’s better to soften and level the area with a heat gun.
When the wax has hardened and you remove the candle from the mold, you might notice the base isn’t perfectly flat. In that case, even it out with a capsule rasp or a special candle grater, or carefully with a knife, or by lightly buffing with a paper towel.
Shrinkage During Setting
Wax shrinkage: causes and how to fix it

For a faint seam, a regular paper napkin will do—just rub the seam with it.

For pronounced seams—for example, on two-part plastic molds—pottery tools work well, such as loop tools and small metal knives.

What to do:

Remove the bulk of the excess wax with a knife or loop tool. Then use a soft, fluffy brush to sweep away the shaved wax so the candle is clean. Finish by buffing the area with a paper napkin.

Seam on a Candle

Seam on a candle: how to smooth it?

An over-tightened wick can cause cracks in candles. This is especially common with taper (dinner) candles.

What to do:
When you secure the wick with a wick holder/centering tool, pull it down just a little to reduce the tension. Don’t overdo it: the wick shouldn’t slacken and wander to one side if the mold is straight. If the candle has bends, the wick should follow those curves so the candle melts evenly.

Over-Tightened Wick

What’s the risk? How to do it right?

It often happens that a candle doesn’t melt completely and small chunks drop off without melting. Is that normal?

Yes, absolutely. This is common with asymmetrical molds or designs that have protruding elements. There’s no need to worry if, for example, a shoulder on a female/male torso candle drops off — that’s normal.

If you don’t like this effect, you can adjust it. As mentioned in the lesson on choosing a wick for pillar candles, selecting a setup with a stronger flame can help. You can choose a slightly larger wick so the flame melts a wider area of wax; keep in mind the candle will likely burn faster.

This note is about small bits flaking off the candle. If large parts of the candle remain unmelted or keep falling off, you likely need to switch to a bigger wick.
Candle Shedding in Chunks

Is it normal for pieces to fall off while the candle is burning?

Don’t confuse cracks with shrinkage.
First, make sure the problem is really the wax, not the temperatures.
  1. Don’t let candles set by a window, on a cold surface, or under an air conditioner. Avoid drafts.
  2. Try pouring the wax at a lower temperature.
  3. Make sure the crack didn’t happen during unmolding. In other words, the candle shouldn’t be breaking from your removal technique; the cracks should be visible even before you take it out of the mold.

If you’ve done all of the above and the wax still cracks, try this:
  1. Add a small amount of container wax to your pillar (mold) wax. Exact dosage varies by wax; manufacturers and sellers usually suggest a range — on average from 5% to 20%. Test and find the ratio that works best for you.
  2. Add a little beeswax. Beeswax makes pillar wax more flexible. Recommended: from 1% up to 10%.
Wax Cracking in the Mold

Wax cracks in the mold while setting — what should you do?

Candle Wax Calculator
How to calculate how much wax you need for a candle?
Here’s how to calculate the amount of wax you need.
We’ll use a calculator app. I use “Candle Calc” (shown in the App Store as “Candle Maker Calc”).
Download for iOS

There are also various online calculators, which are easy to find.

(Video tutorial)
1) Open the app and go to the Wax weight tab (see the tabs at the bottom).
How to use Candle Calc
First, let’s cover container candles.

3) The Wax field will auto-calculate the wax amount.
If you’re making an unscented container candle, you’re done—melt that amount of wax.

2) Enter the container capacity in the Vessel fill field (mL).
If you’re unsure, weigh the empty container on a pocket scale, fill it to the brim with water, then weigh again. The difference in grams ≈ milliliters.

5) Enter the Vessel count if you’re making multiple candles.
For example, enter 10 to see how much wax and fragrance oil you need for ten candles.

4) For scented candles, enter the FO % (fragrance-oil percentage).
The app will show two values: Wax for the batch (how much wax to melt) and FO for the batch (how much fragrance oil to add).

What about pillar candles?

The calculator may be inaccurate for pillar candles because it assumes some headspace instead of filling the container to the rim. If you measure with water and then weigh the candle, you’ll only get an approximate value—this matters when using colorants, where the exact fill affects shade.

For pillar candles, it’s safer to melt 15–30% more wax than needed, with a generous margin. After the candle cools and hardens, weigh it to get the exact amount of wax used in grams—this will give you the correct amount for your next batch.
Sometimes a candle needs to be redone because of defects. With a molded candle it’s simple—lay it down and remelt. But how do you remelt a container candle without much effort?

1) Method 1
Fill a saucepan with a little water and set it over low heat. Hot water and steam will loosen the wax from the sides, and you can pull the candle out by the wick.
— Add only a little water and reposition the jar in the pan from time to time. If there’s too much water, the jar won’t stand level and may tip over.
— Don’t let the water reach a rolling boil: the jar will start to rattle and can fall over.

2) Method 2
Slightly more work than the first but safer for the jar. Use a heat gun (or a hair dryer on high) and warm the sides while rotating the candle. The walls will soften and you’ll be able to pull the candle out by the wick.

Note: These methods don’t work for every vessel. If your jar narrows at the top, you’ll need to fully melt the candle in a pot or break it up with a knife.
Remelting Candles
How to easily remelt a container candle?
Let’s start with the basics.
Scent throw is how well a candle fills a space with fragrance. There are two types:
— Hot throw (HT): how the candle smells while burning.
— Cold throw (CT): how the candle smells when unlit.

What affects scent throw?

1) Wax
Choose proven, widely used waxes that many candle makers rely on. You can research any wax by searching YouTube (e.g., “Golden Wax 464”).

2) Fragrance oil (FO)
Use reliable fragrance oils formulated specifically for candles (not for soap/cosmetics/perfume only). The same FO can perform differently in different waxes, so testing is essential. High-quality suppliers usually indicate whether an FO is suitable for candles and provide a recommended load.

— Load rate matters. A typical range is 6–10%. Some waxes allow up to 12%, but “more” does not always mean “stronger”; past a point you only oversaturate the wax. Run your own tests to find the sweet spot for your system.

3) Adding fragrance oil: temperature & mixing
Follow the temperature guidance from your wax maker. Bring the wax to a high enough temperature before adding FO so it binds properly (commonly 80–85 °C if your wax allows; if the max for your wax is lower, stay in that lower range). For tricky FOs, hold the wax at the higher end for about 10 minutes and stir continuously with a spoon/spatula (not a thin stick).

4) The right wick
The wick size directly affects HT. If the jar is 10 cm in diameter but the wick melts only a 4 cm pool, throw can drop dramatically. An undersized wick → a small melt pool and weak throw. An oversized wick → overheated pool, soot/smoke, and the aroma can degrade. Consider that wooden wicks often enhance perceived throw. Always trim the wick before lighting.

How not to spoil the candle’s aroma (extinguishing methods)

1) Lid method
Cover the candle with the lid for about 3 seconds, then lift the lid and let the smoke vent out of the jar. When the smoke clears completely, close it again.

2) Snuffer
Use a candle snuffer to extinguish the flame without smoke.

3) Wick dipper
Dip the wick into the melt pool and immediately lift it back up straight. This method also avoids smoke.

How to test hot throw?

Many makers use a simple three-step HT test. Work through each step:

1) Bathroom test
A bathroom (or any small room) is perfect for the first trial. Even small candles can fill it. Light the candle and let it burn at least 30 minutes, up to 2–3 hours. Go in like a regular customer would and check how the aroma develops. You can repeat the test later with a fresh nose. If the throw is good, proceed to the next step.

2) Living room test
Now test in a bigger room (any room larger than the bathroom; close the doors). This stage checks the candle’s maximum potential. Light the candle and behave as a normal user. Don’t overthink; simply live with it and enter the room every 20–30 minutes with a fresh nose. Evaluate in different corners to account for air circulation. Pay attention to whether the scent is noticeable on entry, how it distributes, and if the composition feels balanced. If it performs well here, move to the final step.

3) Other people
Give the candle to several people you trust for testing and ask for honest feedback after they’ve used it in their bathroom and living room. Collect short notes on intensity, character, pleasantness, and any issues (headache, heaviness, smoke, etc.). Average the feedback and compare it with your own impressions.
Scent Throw
What affects it, how to improve it, and how to test it

Numbers on Wax Packaging
What are melting point, pour temperature, and maximum heating temperature? How do they differ and why do they matter?
Melting point — the temperature at which your wax begins to melt. On the label this is usually the smallest number. Why it matters:
1) If you live in a warm region, watch this number. If room temps can reach +35 °C, some waxes (e.g., pure coconut) may be unsuitable or hard to ship. Look for blends/additives or choose another wax.
2) For massage candles you need a low melting point. If you’re replacing coconut with soy, pick a wax with a melting point around 45–47 °C.

Pour temperature — the range the manufacturer recommends for pouring. From other lessons you know these figures are approximate and are tuned by testing. Still, the range is a good starting point for your setup.
• If the producer doesn’t specify it, no problem—use the melting point as a reference. If the melting point is, say, 45 °C, try pouring at about 60 °C first.
• If you get frosting or strong shrinkage/sinkholes, lower the pour temperature.
• If you see ridges/waves on the surface, raise it. Run tests in 5 °C steps.

Maximum heating temperature — the highest temperature to which the wax may be heated. This is crucial when adding fragrance oil and color. For example, if your wax’s max heat is 85 °C, add FO/dye at 80–85 °C and mix within that range until fully incorporated.

If your supplier lists nothing on the label, you’ll have to determine the numbers by testing:

1) Melting point test
For hot climates, a simple check is to leave a candle outside/in the sun and see how it behaves after a few hours.
For massage-candle suitability: put a small amount of wax in a pot, place it over a water bath, and press the thermometer tip to the bottom. When the wax begins to melt and move, note the temperature. If it only starts melting around 50 °C or higher, it’s better not to use it for massage candles. If it starts melting below about 50 °C, you can cautiously patch-test: dip a stick, let a tiny drop cool on a saucer/lid, touch with a finger; if it doesn’t burn, you may try a very small drop on the skin. (Most people prefer ≤50 °C for this purpose.)

2) Pour-temperature test
Described above: adjust in 5 °C steps based on surface and structural results.

3) Max-heat test
Heat separate portions of the same wax to different temps, e.g., 85/80/75 °C. Let each portion cool to the usual pour temperature, pour, and then evaluate behavior (surface smoothness, shrinkage, bubbles, internal porosity). Keep in mind that uneven tops can also come from other factors—see the lesson on those.
Do not do this if your wax is finicky and prone to frosting from small temperature swings.

If that’s not the case, then yes, you can—but don’t put the candle in the fridge immediately after pouring (you shouldn’t place hot items in a fridge). It’s better to wait until the wax starts to firm up a little and only then move it. Don’t touch the mold with your hands at that point—the candle can deform because the wax is still soft. Set the mold on a small stand/coaster in advance and move it together with the stand, without touching the mold.

For example, molded candles sometimes have to be made quickly for rush orders. I work with olive wax, which lets me do this. Container waxes, however, haven’t tolerated it for me. They also set faster anyway, so I don’t see a reason to speed them up.
Fridge
Can you put candles in the fridge to speed up setting?
PACKAGING AND STORAGE
In this lesson, we’ll discuss how to store and pack finished candles to avoid damage.

Storage:

Candles should be stored in a dry place at a moderate temperature, away from heat sources and direct sunlight. Do not store them somewhere too warm, as they may start to melt. Likewise, avoid very cold places, which can cause candles to crack or pull away from their containers.
It’s best to keep candles in closed containers. If the containers don’t have lids, cover them to prevent dust from getting inside, as it’s hard to clean out later.

Storing Materials for Candle Making

Wooden wicks should be stored in a warm, very dry place. Improper storage can cause them to lose their crackle.
Wax should be kept at room temperature in an airtight container to protect it from dust. If dust does get in, the only way to remove it is to filter the melted wax through cheesecloth.

Packaging

Here, we’ll focus not on the aesthetics of your packaging but on shipping safety. We all know how carriers handle packages, so it’s important to do our part to keep the goods as safe as possible.
Use bubble wrap, honeycomb packing paper, packing peanuts, etc. Most importantly, fill any empty spaces in the box tightly so nothing moves and the item stays fully protected.

Improper Packaging
Proper Packaging
Ideally, let it cure for at least 14 days. This is the minimum time to test the wick, burn time, scent throw, and other properties.

If you’re making candles just for yourself and don’t aim for maximum burn time or the strongest scent, you can light the candle as soon as it sets.
First Burn
When can you light a candle after making it?

You’ve probably noticed that candle makers list the burn time on their candles.

How do you calculate it?

As you know, a candle shouldn’t be burned for more than 4 hours at a time. To estimate total burn time, you don’t need to burn it all in one go—one hour is enough.

Steps:

1) Put the candle on a precision (jewelry) scale and note the weight.
2) Burn the candle for one hour.
3) Weigh the candle again.
4) Subtract the after-burn weight from the initial weight—this is how many grams burned in one hour.
5) Divide the initial wax mass by the number from step 4.
6) The result is the total burn time in hours.

Example with numbers:
The wax mass of your candle is 100 g. Before lighting, you weigh the candle together with the container; say it’s 230 g (the exact container weight doesn’t matter here). After one hour, the weight is 225 g. That means 5 g of wax burned in an hour. Now divide 100 by 5 = 20. So the full burn time is about 20 hours. Your figures will, of course, vary.
Burn Time
How to calculate the burn time of a container candle?
In this article we share a step-by-step way to find your ideal candle recipe.

By “ideal candle” we mean a candle that smells great, looks the way you want, burns evenly without sooting, and is safe to use. To get all of that in one product, you need to test: the wick, fragrance oil, dye, wax, etc.

How to run the tests

After you pour a candle, let it cure for two weeks. Label it with all inputs (for example: Kerasoy wax, Mango & Orange FO 9%, STABILO 20 wick, pour at 46 °C). Over those two weeks the wax hardens and the scent develops. Only then should you start burn tests.

Why curing matters and shouldn’t be skipped
A candle on day one can smell different from the same candle after a week or two. The very same wick may behave differently before and after curing.

Imagine: you poured a candle and tested the next day. The wax reached the walls, everything looked fine. Then you poured a batch for sale and let them sit a month. A customer writes that the melt pool never reached the sides and tunneled. Throw suffered, the look suffered, and the customer likely won’t return. Outcome: unpleasant. Don’t skip curing.

What to check after curing

1) Does the wick reach a full melt pool to the glass edge? How long does it take? How hot does the jar get?
— Always trim the wick to 0.5 cm (1/4") before tests. If the wick is too long, the flame will be too large and the test is invalid; if too short, the wick may look “weak” although it’s the right size.
— A reasonable target: the wick should reach the edges in about 40 minutes at minimum and within 1.5–2 hours at most.
— Jar temperature: glass shouldn’t overheat. Thin-walled jars heat up much more and can be unsafe. Thick walls and a thick base protect better from heat, but the jar can still feel hot—evaluate usability in the hand.

2) How does the candle smell?
Leave the room for 20–30 minutes, then enter the room where the candle was burning and evaluate whether the scent is noticeable and how strong it is. (See the separate lesson on HT testing.) If you don’t smell much, it isn’t always your fault—room size, drafts/ventilation, and candle placement can all reduce throw.

3) Does frosting appear over time?
Sometimes frosting shows up later, not right away. If you see it, adjust pour/add temperatures or try another FO/wax. Natural waxes are prone to crystallization; you can’t eliminate it 100%, but you can reduce it.

Minimum checklist above is what you need for container-candle testing.

Why trim the wick to 0.5 cm (1/4")?

1) Without trimming before tests you may misjudge the wick.
An overlong wick gives an oversized flame and a too-fast melt pool; you’ll “upsize” the wick by mistake. With proper trimming the same wick might reach a full melt pool in 50–60 minutes, which is correct.

2) Trimming prevents smoky smell on relight.
If you extinguish and relight without trimming, soot builds up on the wick tip and can give a burnt smell. Always trim to about 0.5 cm before relight.

3) For pillar (molded) candles, frequent extinguishing and retrimming can distort results.
If pillars go out faster, you might increase the session length to stabilize the test. Write the recommendation in your recipe, but run tests to find the minimal safe burn interval first; then keep it consistent across tests.
Testing
Every candle maker wants to arrive at a proven candle recipe.
There are many types of wax:

1) Soy
2) Coconut
3) Olive
4) Beeswax
5) Palm
6) Paraffin

We’ll focus on the most popular, commonly used options—soy, coconut, olive, and beeswax (with notes on palm and paraffin).

1) Soy wax
Often considered good for scent throw and easy to source worldwide. Downsides: most prone to frosting, relatively brittle, and not ideal for complex pillars. I don’t recommend using it neat (100%).

2) Coconut wax
Similar to soy but easier to work with and naturally whiter. It has a lower melting point, so in hot climates or summer, shipping finished candles can be tricky—they may soften or melt in transit.

3) Olive wax (EcoOlive)
My favorite. Trouble-free for me with no frosting issues if you follow the process. Excellent scent throw and a bit stronger than the two above—I highly recommend it. Con: slightly more expensive than competitors.

4) Beeswax
The strongest/hardest here. If you want intricate shapes, beeswax sets the cleanest in molds. But it’s not suitable for scented candles—the natural honey note dominates. It also won’t be perfectly white (many makers buy pre-tinted beeswax; that can be convenient). Beware of fakes: sometimes paraffin tinted and scented with “honey” is sold as beeswax—buy from trusted sellers.

5) Palm wax
Usually blended with container or other waxes. Adds hardness, raises the melting point, and makes the surface feel less oily. There’s also crystalline palm wax: poured at high temperatures, it sets with a frosted/feathered pattern. You can find recipes for it in shared/bulk purchases.

6) Paraffin
Common in decorative, pillar, and botanical candles. Not eco-friendly, but widely available and inexpensive. It’s strong and non-greasy.

Bottom line
There’s no single “perfect” wax for everyone. What’s ideal for one maker may not suit another. Start with small batches, test in your molds and conditions, and choose the wax you feel most comfortable working with.
Pillar Wax
Choosing wax for pillar candles
We’ll look at the two main types of wax: soy and coconut.

Key differences:

1) Coconut wax is usually whiter; soy tends to have creamier tones.
2) Coconut has a lower melting point, so a coconut candle will generally burn a bit faster than a soy candle.
3) Soy is more often sold in pellets/flakes; coconut usually comes in blocks. This doesn’t affect performance—it's mostly a matter of convenience and preference.
4) Soy is a bit trickier to work with than coconut. Pure soy more often leaves uneven tops, so you may need a repour or to smooth with a heat gun, and you’ll need to fine-tune pour temperature more carefully. Coconut shows these issues less because it’s softer and more pliable. Still, you must dial in temps for your setup with both.
5) Soy wax is easier to source than coconut.
6) Many makers feel soy has better scent throw, but this is subjective—people perceive fragrance differently.
Container Wax
Choosing wax for container candles
Compared with container waxes, pillar waxes have fewer quality criteria. What we want from a pillar wax is that it doesn’t soften in the hand, is versatile, and isn’t fussy about frosting. Which waxes fit the bill? Let’s look at them.

Top waxes:

1) Olive wax (EcoOlive Pillar). Suitable for pillar candles and for sachets. Excellent scent throw, very easy to work with, and doesn’t leave hands oily.

2) Crystalline palm. Also works for pillars and sachets. Good throw, simple to use, and in the hand barely feels like “wax.” Thanks to its higher melting point, it’s a good option for hot regions.

3) Coconut (ES-Tart). Gave me very strong hot throw and is easy to work with, but it’s not ideal for hot climates because of its lower melting point.

4) Golden Wax 494. A pillar wax with good scent throw. Not the easiest—tends to frost.

5) Beeswax. The strongest wax; can handle very complex shapes where other waxes may fail.

These are, in my view, the best pillar waxes. If any of them aren’t available in your region, don’t worry—most waxes can be tuned with testing, and we can help you with that.
Top Pillar Waxes
How to choose wax for a pillar candle?
Candle makers work with many waxes, and everyone has favorites. Any wax has pros and cons, and each maker has different comfort criteria.

In this article I’ll cover the most popular container waxes.

1) Golden Wax 464
Perhaps the most popular soy wax on the market. Loved for its scent throw. Because it’s pure soy, it isn’t the easiest to work with—but it can be tuned.

2) Kerax Coconut Container
An excellent wax for both container and massage candles. Very soft and oily. Its scent throw is a little weaker than Golden Wax 464.

3) Tefawax 541
A budget alternative to Golden. Very good throw, but not very simple in pure form—I use it in a blend.

Other excellent waxes with nice tops and good scent throw: Nature Wax C-3, Nature Wax C-310, EcoSoya CB Advanced, EcoCoco Container.

Don’t worry if none of these are available in your region or shipping is expensive. With almost any wax you can dial in a working recipe—and we can help with that.
Top Container Waxes
Which waxes are best for a container candle?


1) Never buy anything in large quantities until you’ve tested the material yourself. Make your first purchases in minimal batches. This saves money and nerves. Once you’re sure a material works for you, then buy in bulk.

2) When choosing a wax, read reviews in the chat via search—just type its name. For example, for Golden Wax 464 you can search: “golden”, “464”, “golden wax”, “gw”, etc.

3) The pouring pot, decor, wick holders, containers, paper towels, brushes, and other consumables are where you can save. Wax, fragrance oils, wicks, and silicone molds are the items you shouldn’t skimp on.

4) Be sure to get everything from the Starter Kit at the very beginning—there’s nothing extra in it; it’s the minimum for a comfortable start.
Buying Supplies
What should you pay attention to?

What is a blend?
A blend is a mixture of waxes. There are pillar blends and container blends. You can buy them or make your own.

Why are blends popular and not worse than pure waxes?
They’re often easier to work with. Tops come out smoother with less effort, and many blends deliver scent throw comparable to single-wax formulas.

Examples of blends:
— EcoCoco (container) — olive + coconut
— EcoOlive (pillar) — olive + coconut
— Nature Wax C-6 — soy + coconut
There are many other blends on the market.

Can you make a blend yourself?
Yes, absolutely. It’s also a great way not to waste a wax you didn’t like. A few scenarios:

1) A “tricky” pure soy wax: add a fatty coconut wax. My go-to recipe:
Tefawax 541 (a demanding soy) + Kerax Coconut Container (very fatty coconut) at 70% soy / 30% coconut → a trouble-free container blend.

2) You disliked a wax: buy another wax (pillar or container) and test mix-ins.
Important: wicks for pure vs. blended waxes will differ—retest your wick.

3) No pillar wax available in your region: add stearic acid (easy to find on marketplaces) to a container wax, up to about 10%, to get a pillar-grade wax.

4) You can also add palm wax (about 15%–50%) to a container wax to make a pillar blend.
There are truly many workable options.

Keep in mind: each wax has its own boundaries and behavior. Weigh components precisely and record ratios; otherwise every batch becomes a “new wax” that will require re-wicking from scratch.
Blends
What are they and what are the benefits?

Yes—but mostly as a formality, because many countries require an expiry date. The formal term is 1–1.5 years.

When people say wax is “expired,” they usually mean it has lost properties due to improper storage.

1) Wax can dry out if left open because the oils evaporate.
2) Properties also degrade if stored in direct sunlight, in heat, or near heaters. The optimal storage temperature for candles and wax is up to 25 °C.

If you follow these storage rules, you can use wax for a very long time.
Shelf Life
Does wax have a shelf life?

Cutting Molds
Which molds can be cut, how deep should the cut be, and what should you cut with?

Silicone molds are usually either sold pre-slit or don’t need a slit at all. Do not cut thin-silicone molds: you won’t be able to clamp them securely with rubber bands, the wax will leak, and the mold will be ruined.

But if the mold is made of thick silicone, a slit is often needed.

Many thick molds arrive with a slit, but sometimes it’s too short or not fully cut through. In that case, you can easily finish the slit yourself with a knife.

Important points:

1) Use a very sharp blade so the cut is clean. A dull blade will tear the silicone and the seam will look messy. A regular knife, a laser-sharpened knife, or a utility blade will work—as long as it’s very sharp.

2) Make the slit on the back/side. If you place it on the front, it will show on the finished piece and look unattractive. It’s best to pour at least once first and decide which side is the “front,” then put the slit on the least visible side.

3) Before adding any extra slit, pour a candle in the mold at least once—you may find the mold doesn’t need an additional cut at all.

How to cut: hold the knife and gently saw forward–back. I personally like laser-sharpened knives—they make a smooth, precise cut.
Example of thin-silicone molds (not recommended).
Example of thick-silicone molds (recommended).
Short answer: almost any, but each type has its nuances. Let’s look at the details.

For beginners who don’t yet have much testing/wicking experience, it’s best to use thick-walled glass (≥0.3 cm / ≈3 mm). Such jars are less likely to crack if overheated.

What about goblets or thin glass?

They can certainly be used for candles, but keep in mind:

1) Proper testing is essential. During tests, run a full 4-hour burn (the maximum single burn session) to check safety.

2) Always inform customers about safety rules:
a) do not burn a candle for more than 4 hours at a time;
b) trim the wick to 0.5 cm (¼") before each lighting so the flame isn’t too large.

3) An alternative approach is to choose a wick that doesn’t melt the wax all the way to the walls. This won’t fit every vessel. The melt pool should still be at least 5–6 cm wide; otherwise the scent throw will be very weak.
Candle Vessels
Which vessels are suitable for container candles?
Wick Selection
How do you choose the right wick for pillar (molded) candles?

In this article we’ll figure out how to choose a wick for pillar candles.
Wicking a pillar is different from wicking a container candle—the goals are not the same. With pillars you’re not chasing a full, wall-to-wall melt pool inside a jar; you’re choosing how the candle should behave in open air.

First, decide what you want the candle to do:
— melt down completely; or
— keep a “tunnel” and melt only in the center; or
— something in between.

Let’s look at the two main scenarios.

1) The candle melts completely
Choose a larger wick. If the mold is wide or overall large, you may even need multiple wicks.

2) The wax does not spread to the edges (controlled tunneling)
Choose a smaller wick that’s intentionally undersized for the candle’s diameter. Be sure to test so it doesn’t soot or overheat the wax.

If you want a special effect, describe it in the chat—other experienced makers can suggest a wicking approach.

When can’t a wick give a full melt to the edge?
— Irregular shapes (e.g., a torso) or very narrow sections. If the wick is too small, the candle will stop melting and leave thick walls; if too large, it may deform the piece. Such forms need careful tests and, sometimes, a compromise.
— Very slim pillars: by design they are small in diameter, so a true edge-to-edge melt pool is unrealistic. For these, choose a wick that gives a stable flame (about a 1–2 cm pool is normal for a slim pillar).

One more important point: use wick **without** a metal sustainer/tab for pillar molds.
Container “pre-tabbed” wicks are meant for jars.
1) They’re hard to thread through a mold.
2) The metal tab can leave a cavity or mark and complicate unmolding.
3) Pillar wicks are sold on spools specifically for molds—choose by diameter and test.
Wick Selection
How do you choose the right wick for pillar (molded) candles?

The main goal in container candles is to melt the wax to the glass wall.
If the wick is too small, wax will never reach the edges and you’ll get tunneling.
If the wick is too large, the glass may overheat and the candle can soot.

How to pick a wick

1) Measure your jar’s inner diameter at the widest point. For example, if it’s 6 cm, we’ll look up wicks that suit a 6 cm jar.

2) Use a wick chart. Find your wax and jar diameter, then note several candidate wicks (sizes/series) suggested for that combo.

Open the tables — Open

How to read the charts

— Wax types are listed in the left column.
— Jar diameters are listed along the top.
— Cells show suggested wick series/sizes.
Always select several nearby sizes for testing; each system is different, and exact matches are not guaranteed.

What if your wax or jar isn’t in the chart?

— Choose a chart for a similar wax (e.g., another soy or coconut container wax) and start from those sizes.
— You don’t have to buy the exact brand shown in a specific chart. For the same wax/diameter you can try analogous series from common families such as CD, ECO, HTP, LX, RRD, or STABILO. Test and compare.

How many wicks to buy for the first test?

— Don’t buy every size. Take a small “ladder” around the suggested size (for instance: one size down, the suggested size, and one–two sizes up). That’s usually enough to find a match quickly.

How to know the wick is right

— The melt pool should reach the glass edge within about 40–60 minutes (depending on your wax and FO).
— The flame is stable, without smoke/soot or a big “mushroom.”
— The jar is hot but still safe to handle.
— Melt-pool depth at the end of a session doesn’t exceed about 1 cm.
— Trim the wick to 0.5 cm (¼") before every burn; test under the same trim.
Cotton Wick
How do you choose a cotton wick for container candles?


Choosing a Wooden Wick
How do you choose a wooden wick?

How to choose a wooden wick for a container candle

Approximate width-to-vessel recommendations:
1) 8 mm — for vessels 3–5 cm in diameter
2) 12.5 mm — for vessels 5–7 cm
3) 14 mm — for vessels 6–8 cm

How to use these numbers in practice

Let’s take a marketplace example. Many listings don’t show melt-pool diameters (unlike candle-supply shops that often have charts). Suppose we find wooden wicks on a marketplace and open a listing. In the specs we see “13 × 140.” The first number is the **wick width** in millimeters; the second is the **height**. Height isn’t critical—you can always trim it—but width is the key value to match to your **vessel**.

Measure your vessel’s inner diameter. For example, if the vessel is 6 cm, the table suggests a 12–13 mm wooden wick. Order that size and test.

If the wicks arrive and test small, don’t rush to reorder—try **doubling** them: cut two equal strips and insert both into one wooden-wick clip, then retest.

If doubling doesn’t solve it, order the next width up and test again.

How to store wooden wicks

Store wooden wicks strictly in a dry place. Otherwise even solid wicks can develop cracks. Keep them in a regular zip-lock bag with a silica-gel packet that absorbs moisture (easy to buy on any marketplace).
There’s no single opinion among candle makers: some are for it, others against. It’s your choice, but consider these points and risks:

1) Essential oils are highly volatile—they evaporate quickly. You won’t get the same scent throw as with candle-specific fragrance oils.

2) Some essential oils can be irritating or harmful and may release undesirable compounds when burned.

3) Essential oils are flammable. If the oil isn’t properly incorporated into the wax, there’s a risk of surface ignition (flashover): the whole wax surface can catch fire instead of just the wick, the vessel may crack, and the fire can spread.

4) Cost: high-quality essential oils are usually more expensive than fragrance oils designed for candles.
Essential Oils
Can they be used in candles?

No—they aren’t suitable for wax. Since wax is oil-based, only oil-soluble additives will work.

Water-soluble or alcohol-based fragrances won’t dissolve in wax; they’ll separate and float as foreign patches.
Water-Based Fragrances
Are they suitable for wax?

No—they aren’t suitable for wax. Since wax is oil-based, only oil-soluble colorants will work.

Water-soluble or alcohol-based dyes won’t dissolve in wax; they’ll separate and show up as foreign streaks or blotches.
Water-Based Dyes

Are they suitable for wax?

Yes, you can—just stay within the maximum recommended load and don’t exceed it.
Mixing Fragrance Oils
Can you mix fragrances?

Yes—you can, as long as you stay within the maximum recommended colorant load and don’t skip testing.

To save wax and dye, run tests in small molds—for example, for wax melts or sachets.
Mixing Dyes
Can you mix dyes?

Yes—you can, because crayons are oil-soluble.

The challenge is dosing: with crayons you don’t have precise usage rates. If you exceed a safe load, frosting is more likely.

Test plan:
1) Start with a very small load — about 0.1%.
2) If all looks good, increase stepwise: 0.3%, 0.5%, 1%, 2% (or until you reach the shade you want).
3) Remember: higher colorant loads often require a larger wick. Once you settle on a color, re-test your wicking — the wick that worked at a lower load may no longer be suitable.
Wax Crayons
Can you use wax crayons as dye?

What’s actually better? Let’s break it down.

Pros of stickers
• Very easy to use.
• No extra equipment needed.

Cons of stickers
• Sometimes arrive dried out; the adhesive can fail while you’re centering the wick.
• If you pour at high temperatures (some waxes prefer a hotter pour), the sticker can loosen and lift.

Pros of hot glue
• More reliable than stickers: bonds firmly.
• No “drying-out” issue with the adhesive over time.

Cons of hot glue
• Requires extra equipment — a hot-glue gun.
• Slightly less convenient; takes a bit of practice.

My take: I’ve used both and prefer the glue gun. Since the main task is to secure the wick, hot glue clearly wins.
Securing the Wick
What’s better: wick stickers or a hot-glue gun?

This is a debated topic in candle making. I’m not insisting on adding fragrance nor on avoiding it completely. Below are the pros and cons of each side.

Arguments against adding:
— There’s often little point: most pillar candles form a small melt pool. As you know from the lesson on scent throw, the larger the melt pool, the stronger the throw. If the pool is only 2–5 cm, the candle will scent only a tiny space — or not at all.
— It noticeably increases the cost of the candle, and that increase usually doesn’t “pay back” because of the small melt pool.
— Silicone molds absorb scents, and candles in turn can pick up those residues. A customer may order two candles with the same fragrance at different times and they can smell different, which can cause dissatisfaction.

Arguments for:
— Many people instinctively smell candles when they see them. A pleasant scent creates a positive first impression and emotion.
Fragrance in Pillar Candles
Adding fragrance to pillar candles — does it make sense?

What you’ll need:
1) A silicone mold
2) A scale
3) Water

Important: do this calculation well before you pour the candle, because you’ll be wetting the mold. For pouring, the mold must be absolutely clean and completely dry. Don’t wipe it with towels (lint can remain); let it air-dry naturally. 6–12 hours is usually enough.

Steps:
1) Place the mold on the scale. If the mold has a slit, secure it with rubber bands so water won’t leak during weighing.
2) Tare the scale with the empty mold.
3) Fill the mold with water.
4) Record the weight shown.

The weight of the water equals the wax needed for the candle: **1 gram of water = 1 gram of wax**.
Wax Calculation

How to calculate how much wax you need for a pillar candle

1) Carefully check the inside of the mold for dust, lint, hairs, or debris. Remove everything; otherwise these particles will print onto the finished candle and can’t be removed later.

2) Make sure there are no leftover dye stains from previous pours (if you poured colored candles before). Any residue will transfer as a spot onto the next candle. How to clean dye off a mold — (link).

3) Check that there are no wax films/streaks left on the mold. If there are, wash the mold. How to wash molds properly — (link). If the mold interior isn’t perfectly glossy when it should be, and there’s a matte patch from wax, that matte patch will appear on the candle as well.

Do you need to coat the mold with anything?
No. A proper pillar wax releases well without any coatings. If your wax tends to stick to the mold, it’s better to switch wax. Silicone release spray adds unnecessary cost, and oily mold coatings can leave the candle feeling greasy and unpleasant to the touch.
Mold Prep

How to prepare the mold for pouring a pillar candle?

Keeping molds clean is crucial: any dust, lint, wax bits from a previous pour, or leftover dye will print onto the next candle. Here’s how to clean molds without damaging them.

Silicone molds
— Use refined vegetable oil (e.g., sunflower) to lift pigment, and dish soap or a mild shampoo to remove wax residue.
— Always wash with a soft sponge only—don’t scratch the silicone.
— If dye gets on the mold, wash it off right away or it can stain permanently. To remove pigment, rub the stained area with a little refined oil using your hands, then wash off with dish soap.

Plastic molds
— Plastic pillar molds are harder to clean because your hand won’t fit inside. Wrap a soft cotton cloth around a spatula/stick and use it as a swab to reach inside.
— Moisten the cloth with dishwashing liquid and spot-clean the soiled areas.

If there’s stubborn wax that won’t wash off:
— Warm the mold with a heat gun/hair dryer or carefully pour in hot (near-boiling) water, then wash with detergent. Part of the wax will melt and run down the walls; after that, finish with the regular cleaning steps above.
Mold Cleaning

How to clean silicone molds (and plastic molds)?

Steam should be visible, but not too vigorous. Do not let water get into the wax; otherwise, you’ll get bubbles in the pour that can only be fixed by remelting the candle.

If your melting vessel’s sides and bottom touch the boiling water (e.g., a regular pitcher), stay nearby and stir the wax regularly. The wax near the walls heats much faster than the center, and stirring prevents uneven overheating.
Water Bath (Double Boiler)

Recommendations

Steam should be visible, but not too vigorous. Do not let water get into the wax; otherwise, bubbles will form during the pour and can only be fixed by remelting the candle.

If your melting vessel’s sides and bottom touch the boiling water (for example, when using a regular pitcher), stay nearby and stir the wax regularly. The wax near the walls heats much faster than the center, so stirring prevents uneven overheating.
Microwave Oven

Why should wax be melted over steam? Can you use a microwave?

This is a debated topic in candle making. I don’t insist on adding fragrance or on avoiding it completely. Below are the pros and cons of each view.

Arguments against adding:
— Often little point: most pillar candles have a small melt pool. As you learned in the scent-throw lesson, the larger the melt pool, the stronger the throw. If the pool is only 2–5 cm, the candle will scent only a tiny area—or not at all.
— It noticeably increases the cost of the candle, and that extra cost usually doesn’t “pay back” because of the small melt pool.
— Silicone molds absorb aromas, and candles can, in turn, pick up those residues. A customer might buy two candles with the same fragrance at different times and they can smell different, which may cause dissatisfaction.

Argument for:
— Many people instinctively smell candles when they see them. A pleasant aroma creates a positive first impression and emotion.
Working with Fragrance Oils

Adding fragrance to pillar candles — does it make sense?

Dosages
— First, rely on the manufacturer’s recommendation. Different brands give their own ranges (e.g., 0.05–0.5% of wax, 0.01–0.3%, etc.). If you exceed the range, the risk of frosting increases.
— If your dye has no brand/data sheet, you’ll need to find a safe dose empirically.

How to test the dose step-by-step
1) Start with a very small load, about 0.2%.
2) If you see frosting at that dose, your wax is sensitive—stay lower.
3) If there’s no frosting, increase gradually and watch the results, for example:
0.5% → 0.7% → 1% → 2% (or until you get the shade you want).

Also consider the wax’s **maximum additive load**
— Many wax data sheets list it, e.g.: “Max additive load — 12% (higher loads may cause surface issues).”
— “Additive load” means **everything** you add to wax, not just fragrance. Example: 10% fragrance oil + 1% dye = 11% total, which must stay within the wax’s limit.

When to add dye to wax
— You can add dye at almost any stage (before heating, while melting, or at the max heating temperature).
— Best dissolution happens near the wax’s **maximum heating temperature**—that’s when the dye melts fully and disperses evenly.

Wicking note
— Dye makes a candle a bit harder to melt, so a **larger wick** is often needed. After you settle on the final color/dose, re-test your wick with the colored wax.
Working with Dyes

Basics for using colorants in any wax items (pillar & container candles, melts, sachets).

You can make the hole with an awl or a large needle.
I have both an awl with an eye and a needle. I find the needle much more convenient because the eye is larger and it’s easier to thread the wick. If you find an awl with a large eye, that will work too.

As a last resort people use big pins with a sharp end or a skewer, but this can damage the silicone mold, which may be expensive. It’s better to use a proper tool. If you regularly thread the wick with a finger or some improvised object, the mold can begin to tear and leave marks on finished candles.

How to make the hole

— Don’t rely on the outer “center” of the mold; always check from the inside.
— If you can’t judge the center, pour a candle once without the hole, demold it and look where the true center should be.
— Then find that spot on the mold and make the hole by pushing the needle **from the inside out**, not the other way around.

If the hole is slightly off-center and the wick touches a wall, don’t worry. Don’t tighten the wick right away: fix it in a wick holder/clip first, then pull it a little so it hangs free, following the curves of the walls.
Wick Hole

How to make a wick hole in a silicone mold: how and with what?

Don’t judge alignment by the mold’s top edge. Even if the rim looks perfect, the inner seam can still be misaligned. Do this instead:

1) First, secure the mold with rubber bands so the wax won’t leak when you pour. Don’t skimp on bands and don’t overtighten. If you use too few, wax may leak through the slit; if you overtighten, the mold can deform and the candle will come out warped.

2) Next, from the inside, trace the seam line with your finger from top to bottom and press to align it as you go.

It’s easier without gloves—you’ll feel the silicone better. After that, thread the wick and fix it in a wick holder (or another method).
Aligning Mold Seams

How to properly align the seams on a mold?

Unlike container candles, topping off pillars has its own nuances.

Sometimes a top-off creates a visible “step/ledge” or trapped bubbles. On a finished candle this can only be disguised or the candle has to be remelted and re-poured.

How to prevent this:

1) Pour the top-off at a higher temperature so the old wax and the new wax fuse together.

2) If your wax is picky and prone to frosting, first soften the top surface with gentle heat, then pour the fresh wax at the “comfortable” temperature for that wax—the one at which it doesn’t frost.
Topping Off (Repouring) Pillar Candles

How to top off a pillar candle correctly?

What affects setting time:
1) Mold volume
A 70 g candle will set faster than a 1 kg candle.

2) Wax characteristics
Different waxes set at different speeds.

3) Room temperature
At 27–30°C, candles set more slowly than at 17–20°C.

How to find the minimum safe setting time for your candle?
Answer: testing.

How to test:
— First give the candle plenty of time to set: about 10–14 hours (for very large pillars or slow-setting waxes, 12–16).
— If the candle doesn’t break due to insufficient setting, shorten the time.

How not to confuse insufficient setting with brittle wax:
— **Brittleness**: the candle snaps or crumbles even when fully set.
— **Insufficient setting**: the candle feels soft/pliable; the core may still be semi-liquid.

With each pour, reduce the time by about an hour and observe: does the candle hold up, is it strong enough?

Gradually you’ll arrive at the minimum time your candle needs to set. Knowing this helps you schedule work and avoid rushed failures. It’s especially useful when you have many orders—you can plan production and deadlines accurately, including for larger batches.
Setting Time
How do you determine how long wax needs to set in a pillar candle?
While the candle is setting, avoid rapid cooling and temperature swings.

Optimal room temperature: 21–25°C. This is warm enough to minimize the risk of frosting caused by a cold room.

Avoid drafts during the setting period.

Place the mold on a trivet or rack—especially if you have a stone countertop. Stone pulls heat quickly, making candles cool faster and triggering wax crystallization. On the finished candle this appears as a white bloom called frosting.
Conditions for Setting

What are the ideal conditions for a candle to set?

Every wax has its own maximum fragrance load, which you normally get from the manufacturer. It’s usually 8–10%, sometimes 12%. Choose the dose based on how strong you want the scent to be. I recommend at least 5–6%; otherwise the throw will be barely noticeable. If your fragrance oil is very strong, you don’t have to go to the maximum.

In any case, test each fragrance with your wax and your intended dosage. Only testing will show the ideal ratio for your combo.

If the seller provides no guidance, run trials. As mentioned, typical loads are 8–10%, sometimes 12%. Start lower—try 8% FO. Then try 10%. Watch how the wax behaves—whether frosting or other issues appear. Going higher usually doesn’t make the scent much stronger; testing is how you verify that.

In my case, my wax’s maximum additive load is 10%. I use 8% fragrance oil. With my waxes and oils, I don’t need more—the optimal scent strength is already reached at that dosage.
Fragrance Load

What to do if the manufacturer doesn’t specify a max fragrance load?

You’ll need:
1) Paper or cardboard (cardboard lasts longer, so it’s handier).
2) A pencil/pen/marker.
3) A ruler.
4) The candle vessel.
5) A wick holder. I’ll show this with a wooden-wick holder (it isn’t perfectly round, so it’s trickier); with a round holder it’s even easier.

Steps:
— Press the vessel firmly onto the paper and trace the base.

— Measure the traced circle’s diameter (mine is 73 mm). Draw a square around the circle. That makes it easier to find the true center. Measure the square’s height and divide by two (≈36 mm for me) and mark that point. This is the vessel’s center.

— Measure the wick holder.
• If it’s round, just measure its diameter and divide by two to get the radius.
• If it’s rectangular (typical for wooden-wick holders), measure its length and width separately. Divide each by two (e.g., 15 mm → 7.5 mm; 13 mm → 6.5 mm). From the center mark, lay off those half-dimensions along the vertical and horizontal axes and draw guide lines. You now have the outline where the holder must sit for a centered wick.

— Place the vessel back over the drawing, aligning the traced circle with the guidelines. Set the wick holder exactly within the rectangle you drew. That’s the centered position for the wick.
Wick Centering

How to perfectly center a wick?

If you don’t wax the wick, it may not ignite. Or it may light and then immediately go out.

I recommend doing it every time. It really protects you from unpredictable wick behavior.

A convenient way to wax wicks:
You can prepare extra wick in advance. For example, melt 20–30 g of pure wax just for waxing the wick and treat a 10-meter length at once, then roll it back up and store it until your next candle pour.
WICK WAXING

Is it necessary to wax the wick?