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ROSE CANDLE
We will look at the process of creating a classic rose.
What you’ll need:

1) Bleached beeswax (~80–100 g)
2) Wax melter or a container for a water bath
3) Silicone mat
4) A maraca or any rounded object 6–6.5 cm in diameter
5) Spoon
6) Knife
7) Kitchen thermometer
8) Oil-soluble dye in white and any other color
9) Ruler
10) Waxed wick
STEP 1. PREPARATION
1. Production conditions.
The room should be warm, without drafts; work on a warm surface so the wax will cool more slowly. If the countertop is cold, you can put a towel, a wooden board, or a heated mat under it.

2. Melting the wax.
Pour the wax into a container and place it on a water bath or in a wax melter (making sure no steam gets into the wax); melt the wax to a liquid state.

3. Check the mat.
Lay out the mat, clean it from dust; if necessary, grease it with vegetable oil (optional).

4. Lay out the tools.
Arrange all the tools in front of you.
STEP 2. WAX PREP
1. Add the colorant

Stir the dye into the melted wax. The amount depends on the shade you want. For a vivid color, use a well-pigmented dye—adding too much low-pigment dye can make the wax more brittle.

2. Mix until uniform

Stir thoroughly to fully dissolve the dye in the wax.
STEP 3. MAKING THE CENTER


1) Spoon melted wax onto the mat, forming round “pancakes” 5–5.5 cm in diameter. Make 8 pieces. Let the wax cool slightly.

• Carefully lift the pancakes with a knife and fold each one in half.
• Stack two of them and wrap around the thermometer.
• Wrap the remaining pancakes one by one around the formed center, bending the free edge of each petal outward. Each next petal should cover the previous one by half, and the free edge should sit a bit higher than the center so you can round it off.
• If needed, trim the bottom of the core with a knife; if the petals hold loosely, dip the bottom into wax.

2) Pour the next batch of petals onto the mat, 5–5.5 cm in diameter. Make 4 pieces. Let the wax cool slightly, then cut these pancakes in half.

• Glue the halves around the core using the same method as the previous petal row.
• For the next row you will need 4 petals 5–5.5 cm in diameter.
• Without cutting, glue them around the core the same way, raising them slightly above the center.
• Periodically check the wick hole; if it has closed, reopen it while the wax is still warm.
STEP 4. SHAPING THE MIDDLE PETALS

  • • For the next petal row, pour 6 more wax “pancakes” on the mat, 5–5.5 cm in diameter.
  • • Shape each pancake with the maraca tool: press it tightly to the tool, pushing from the bottom and keeping the top edge straight. With your hands, curl the upper edge of the petal.
  • • Dip a petal in wax and attach it to the core so that its edge rises above the core. Try not to press from the side; support the lower part of the flower instead. Continue gluing petals in a circle, overlapping each new petal by half over the previous one.
  • • Pour the next row of petals, 6–6.5 cm in diameter (6 pieces).
  • • Shape them with the maraca as before, but this time make the petal tip sharper.
  • • Glue these petals around the core the same way, but now do not raise them above the core—angle them slightly downward.
  • • If needed, after each row briefly dip the assembly into wax to improve bonding between petals.
STEP 4. SHAPING THE OUTER PETALS

• For the next petals, add more wax and a little white dye. This step is for those who want the outer petals lighter than the inner ones.

• After the wax has melted and the dye has dissolved, make the final rows of petals 7–7.5 cm in diameter (12–16 pieces).

• Shape each petal with the maraca tool, then attach them the same way as before, 6–7 petals per row. Glue the last row as close to the very bottom as possible, as neatly as you can, to form a clean base of the candle.

• When the candle is finished, make a hole and insert the wick. Press it from below into the still-warm wax so it stays in place. Before lighting, trim the wick to 0.5 cm.