Marble Candle

In this lesson, we will explore the process of creating a marble candle using two different methods.

Что нам потребуется для изготовления:

1) Pillar Wax
Top pillar waxes - Open
2) Silicone Mold
3) Wick
How to choose the wick for a pillar candle? - Open
4) Thermometer
5) Melting vessels (double boilers method) or a wax melter
6) Fragrance oils (optional)
Adding fragrance oils to pillar candles - Is it worth it? - Open
7) Dye (optional)
8) Rubber bands
What molds can be cut, and how to do it correctly? - Open
9) Needle/awl with the hook
10) Wick centering tool or sushi sticks, cotton swabs
11) Spoon or spatula for mixing
12) Pocket scales

You can learn more about the equipment in the lesson “Starter Kit” in this section.

Open

Unlike container wax, pillar wax has fewer quality criteria. What we need from pillar wax is that it doesn’t melt easily, is all-purpose, and doesn’t have major issues with frosting. Which waxes meet these criteria? Let’s break it down in this lesson.

Top Best Waxes:
1. Olive Ecoolive Pillar Wax
This wax is suitable for both pillar candles and sachets. It has excellent scent throw, is easy to work with, and doesn’t make your hands greasy.
2. Crystallizing Palm Wax
Also works for both pillar candles and sachets. It has a good scent throw, is easy to work with, and doesn’t even feel like wax in your hands. It’s ideal for hot regions because of its high melting point.
3. Golden Wax 494
A pillar wax with good scent throw. However, it’s not the easiest to work with and often forms frosting.
4. Beeswax
The strongest wax, which can be used for the most complex molds that would break with any other wax. However, natural beekeeping beeswax cannot be scented or colored. There’s also bleached Chinese beeswax, which can be scented and colored.

These are, in my opinion, the best waxes for pillar candles. If these waxes are not available in your region, don’t worry. Almost any wax can be worked with, and I’ll help you with that.

Top pillar waxes

How to choose wax for pillar candles?

In this lesson, we’ll learn how to choose wicks for pillar candles.

Choosing a wick for pillar candles is quite different from choosing one for container candles, as the goals are completely different. Here, we don’t always aim to melt the wax all the way to the edges.

First, I want to say that a wick can only be considered incorrectly chosen in one case — if the wick drowns in the wax and goes out. In other cases, it simply doesn’t meet your preferences.

It’s important to determine what you want from the candle:
• To melt the candle completely
• To avoid wax spilling and create a tunnel burn inside, etc.

Let’s break down these two main options:

First option: The candle melts completely
For this, we choose a larger wick. If the mold is wide or generally large, we can even use several wicks.

Second option: The wax doesn’t spill and burns in a tunnel
In this case, we need a smaller wick, one that’s not appropriate for the diameter of your candle (for example, if you have a pillar or botanical candle). You must conduct tests, following all the rules, to make sure the wick doesn’t drown in the melting wax.

If you want a different effect, write your request in the chat, and I or other experienced candlemakers will help you find a solution.

When can’t the wick create a tunnel burn?

A candle won’t burn evenly in a tunnel if it isn’t round. For example, a female torso mold. If you use too small a wick, the middle of the torso will burn down, and the edges will remain untouched. It’s normal if some corners don’t burn, but when about ⅔ of the candle is left unburned after use, it’s time to buy new wicks and continue testing.

Also, you can’t get a tunnel burn effect with dinner candles. For an obvious reason — they are just too small in diameter. Plus, you are unlikely to find wicks that burn for a 1 cm diameter. For a standard dinner candle mold, regular wicks from AliExpress are perfectly fine.

One more important point: For pillar candles, use wicks without wick holders. That is, not ready-made container wicks, but wicks on spools.
• First, they are thinner and more flexible, so it’s easy to thread them through the mold.
• Second, these ready-made wicks bought from marketplaces are often designed for larger diameters, as they are intended for container candles.

• Third, the length of these wicks doesn’t always fit molds. They are often too short for things like dinner candles. After a standard torso mold, you’ll have a short piece of wick that you won’t be able to use for another candle. With spooled wicks, the situation is the opposite — you can cut exactly as much as you need.

Wick

How to choose a wick for pillar candles?

Let’s discuss a rather debated topic in candle making: is there any point in adding fragrance oils to pillar candles? I’m not advocating for either adding or completely ignoring fragrance oils in pillar candles. I’m simply sharing the pros and cons of each perspective.

Arguments Against Adding Fragrance Oils:
• It’s not particularly effective because most pillar candles have a small melting diameter. As you learned in the lesson about scent throw, the larger the melting diameter, the stronger the scent throw. If the candle melts with a diameter of 2-5 cm, adding fragrance oil won’t be very effective since it will only scent very small rooms, or it might not be noticeable at all.
• It significantly increases the cost of production, without providing much return on that increase due to the small diameter.
• Silicone molds absorb scents. Candles, in turn, absorb these scents. A customer might order two candles with the same fragrance, but they could smell very different, which may lead to dissatisfaction.

Argument For Adding Fragrance Oils:

• • Many people instinctively reach to smell a candle when they order it. When they get a pleasant scent, it creates a positive emotional response.

Fragrance Oils with Pillar Candles

Adding Fragrance Oils to Pillar Candles - Is it Worth It?

Start the production:

Step 1. Preparation - Open
Step 2. Melt the wax - Open
Step 3. Prepare the mold - Open
Step 4. Method 1. Creating the marble effect - Open
Step 4. Method 2. Creating a Marble Pattern - Open
Step 5. Wax solidification - Open
Step 6. Remove the candle and inspect for defects - Open
Analysis of mistakes with pillar candles - Open

Step 1. Preparation

1. Calculate the required amount of wax for the candle

Wax calculation for pillar candles - Open

2. Check the silicone mold for cleanliness

It’s better to do this in advance, before pouring. The mold will need to dry before starting the work.

How to prepare the mold for pouring? - Open

Cleaning silicone molds - Open

3. Cut the mold if necessary

Cutting molds - Open

In this lesson, we’ll guide you step by step on how to calculate the amount of wax needed for a pillar candle.

What you’ll need:
1. Silicone mold
2. Scales
3. Water

Important note - It’s better to calculate in advance before pouring the wax into the mold, as we will be wetting it. As you know from the pillar candle lesson, the mold must be completely dry and clean before pouring. Also, avoid wiping the mold with towels or cloths, as fibers may remain. The mold should dry naturally. Simply leave it for 6-12 hours.

Step 1: Place the mold on the scales
If the mold has cuts, secure it with rubber bands so water doesn’t leak out during the weighing process.

Step 2: Zero the scale with the mold on it

Step 3: Fill the mold with water

Step 4: Record the value on the scale

The weight of the water equals the amount of wax needed to make the candle. 1 gram of water = 1 gram of wax.

Calculate the Wax

How to calculate the wax for a pillar candle

1. Thoroughly check for any debris, hairs, or other particles on the mold. Be sure to remove them, or they will remain on the finished candle and be impossible to remove later.
2. Check if there are any dye stains left on the mold from previous pours (if you previously made colored candles). Dye will also remain on the finished candle as a stain. You can find out how to clean dye off the mold here - Open
3. Check if there are any wax streaks left on the mold. If there are, wash the mold. You can find out how to properly clean molds here (link). If the mold isn’t perfectly glossy inside, as it should be, and there’s a matte spot from the wax, it will also appear on the candle.

Does the mold need to be treated with anything?
No, it doesn’t. Pillar wax typically comes out of the mold just fine without any treatment.
If your wax sticks too much to the mold, it’s better to switch to a different wax, as silicone lubricants will add to your costs, and lubricating the walls can make the wax feel greasier, which will be unpleasant to the touch.

Mold Preparation

How to prepare a mold for pouring a pillar candle?

In this lesson, we will discuss how to clean silicone and plastic molds.

Keeping your mold clean is really important in candle making because any dust, debris, wax pieces from previous pours, or ingrained dye will be visible on the new candle. That’s why it’s important to know how to clean the mold without damaging it.

Let’s start with silicone molds:

For silicone molds, the best cleaning solutions are regular sunflower oil (if the dye has stained the mold), dishwashing liquid, or regular shampoo (to remove any wax residue). Always use a soft sponge to clean the mold to avoid scratching it.

If the dye has stained the mold, you should clean it immediately, or it will stay there forever.

To remove ingrained dye, pour some sunflower oil into the mold and rub the stained area with your hands. Then, wash it off using dishwashing liquid.

How to clean plastic molds:

For example, cleaning plastic molds for dinner candles can be tricky because your hand won’t fit inside. To clean them, you will need a paper towel and a knitting needle, sushi stick, or any other long, thin object. Wrap the towel around the stick and insert it into the mold. You can moisten the towel with dishwashing liquid if the stain is tough.

If there’s wax left on the mold that won’t come off with cleaning solution, heat the mold with a heat gun or wash it with hot water so the wax melts and runs off the walls. After that, you can proceed with the regular cleaning process described above.

Cleaning Silicone Molds

How to clean molds and what to use?

Usually, silicone molds either come with a pre-made cut or don’t need one at all. For example, molds made of thin silicone shouldn’t be cut, as you won’t be able to secure them with rubber bands, and the wax will leak out, causing you to dispose of it.

Cutting Molds

Which molds can be cut, how deep should the cut be, and what to use for cutting?

However, if the mold is made of thick silicone, a cut is often required.

Typically, molds come with a cut already, but sometimes one cut might not be enough, or the cut might not be deep enough. In such cases, it’s easy to make the cut yourself with a knife.

Important points:

1. The knife needs to be sharp because we need a clean cut. If the knife is unsharp, it will tear the mold, resulting in an uneven seam. Any cutting tool will work: a regular knife, a laser-sharpened knife, or even a utility knife if it’s very sharp.
2. Make the cut at the back or the side of the mold, not at the front. If you cut the front, it will be difficult to remove all traces of it. It’s a good idea to pour a candle at least once to see which side is better for the cut and assess it on the finished candle.
3. Before making the cut, pour a candle into the mold at least once. The mold might not even need an additional cut.

To cut the mold, take the knife and carefully make forward-backward motions. Personally, I prefer laser-sharpened knives as they make the cut as smooth and neat as possible.

Example of molds with thin silicone (not recommended)

Step 2. Melting the Wax

1. Place a vessel with water on the stove and wait for it to boil.

2. Add the wax to the melting vessel.

The amount of wax should have been calculated in Step 1.

3. Place the vessel with wax in a double boiler.

Reduce the stove’s heat to ensure gentle steam, and avoid water getting into the wax.

Double boiler guidelines - Open

Can wax be melted in the microwave? - Open

4. Place a thermometer in the vessel with wax and wait for it to melt completely.

If you’re not using dye or fragrance oils, simply heat the wax to the point where it becomes fully liquid.

5. Add fragrance oils and dye if you want.

If you’re working with dye and fragrance oils, heat the wax to the maximum temperature for your wax.

What is the maximum heating temperature, and how do you find it? - Open

Fragrance oil addition guidelines - Open

Dye addition guidelines - Open

The steam should be present, but not too much, as water must not get into the wax. If it does, water bubbles will form during pouring, and the only way to fix them is by re-melting the candle.

If you’re using a vessel where the sides and bottom come into contact with boiling water, like in my case (I use a regular milk frothing pitcher), you need to stay nearby and stir the wax regularly. The wax near the sides heats up much faster than the wax in the center. Stirring helps prevent uneven overheating of the wax.

Double Boiler

Double boiler guidelines

Why should wax be melted with steam? Can you place the melting vessel directly into water?
There is no strict rule about this. The main advantage of using a double boiler is convenience. What I mean is that when you melt wax with steam, you don’t have to be nearby all the time. Steam melts the wax more evenly.

When the vessel is in water, you need to stir the wax constantly. This is because the wax at the sides and bottom of the vessel melts faster and may overheat, while the wax in the center may remain solid.

What are the risks of overheating wax?
It can alter its properties (causing uneven tops or excessive brittleness inside), and it may lose or reduce its scent throw.

So, if you can’t stir the wax every minute or two while melting, it’s better to get a vessel that doesn’t touch the water.

What about the microwave?
I’m against melting wax in the microwave for several reasons:
1. Overheating wax — In the microwave, you’ll need to take the wax out every 10-15 seconds. This only makes the process more complicated, in my opinion.
2. Health concerns — According to sanitary standards, any vessels used to melt wax or fragrance oils should not be used for food or drink.
3. Wax residue — If you melt wax with fragrance oil in the microwave, you may later notice the fragrance in food that you place in the same microwave.

Points 2 and 3 can be addressed with a separate microwave for wax, but point 1 is something you can’t really solve. However, if you don’t mind taking the wax out every 10 seconds to stir it, and you have a separate microwave, then you can use it.

Microwave

Can wax be melted in the microwave?

Melting Point is the temperature at which your wax starts to melt. Usually, it is the lowest number on the packaging. It’s important to know this temperature for the following reasons:
1. If you live in a warm region, it’s important to pay attention to this parameter when choosing a wax. For example, if temperatures reach up to +35°C, coconut wax or some pure soy waxes might not be suitable. You’ll need to look for additives or a different wax if you plan to transport your candles.
2. If you want to make massage candles, for example, if you want to replace coconut wax with soy. In this case, you’ll need to find a wax with a melting point up to 45-47°C.

Pouring Temperature is the temperature range recommended by the manufacturer for pouring the wax. As you already know from other lessons, these numbers are approximate and should be fine-tuned through testing. However, it’s a good starting point for finding the ideal pouring temperature for your specific conditions. If the manufacturer doesn’t provide this information, it’s not a problem. In this case, rely on the melting point. For example, if it’s 45°C, try pouring at 60°C. If you get frosting and significant shrinkage, lower the pouring temperature. If you see bubble streaks, raise the temperature. Always test with a 5°C increment.

Maximum Heating Temperature is the temperature beyond which the wax should not be heated. It’s important to know this for adding fragrance oils and dye. For example, if your wax has a maximum heating temperature of 85°C, add the fragrance oil/dye at temperatures between 80-85°C and mix thoroughly at this range until fully blended.

If your supplier doesn’t provide any information on the wax, you’ll have to figure it out through testing.

Melting Point Testing is straightforward. For hot regions, leave the candle outside or under the sun and observe it for a couple of hours. For massage candles, test like this: put a small amount of wax in a vessel, place it in the double boiler, and press the thermometer probe to the bottom. When you see the wax starting to melt, note the temperature of the vessel. If the wax starts to melt above 55°C, it’s better not to use it. If the temperature is below 55°C, you can cautiously test it. Don’t pour it directly; instead, take a small amount with a cotton swab and apply it to the skin. If it doesn’t burn, try pouring it onto a dish or lid and dip your finger in. If it still doesn’t burn, carefully try it on your hand, just a small amount. Usually, suppliers do provide the melting point, though.

Pouring Temperature Testing steps were outlined above.

Testing the Maximum Heating Temperature: Heat different portions of wax to 85°C, 80°C, and 75°C, then let them cool down and pour the candles. Observe their properties (scent throw, tops, porosity inside). Keep in mind, uneven tops can be caused by other factors as well.

Numbers on the Packaging

Numbers on the packaging: what do they mean and how to use it?

The most convenient method is to add fragrance oil without removing the wax container from the stove.

I take the fragrance oil, weigh it on the scale, and reset it to zero. Then, I start adding the oil, periodically putting it back on the scale to check how much is left. I continue adding until I reach the desired amount as indicated in the app, ignoring the minus.

Alternatively, you can pre-measure the fragrance in a measuring cup or a small glass. I don’t recommend using tall cups because more fragrance will stick to the sides than in a shorter cup.

Once the fragrance oil is added, let the wax continue heating to the maximum heating temperature, and mix thoroughly until the mixture is uniform.

fragrance oil

How to add fragrance oil without removing the wax from the stove

In this lesson, we’ll cover all the nuances of working with dyes in various wax products — pillar and container candles, wax melts, and sachets.

Dosages

First and foremost, we refer to the manufacturer’s recommended dosage for the dye. For example, for Bekro dyes, the dosage ranges from 0.05% to 0.5% of the wax weight. For Candle Science dyes, it’s between 0.016% and 0.032%. This is what the manufacturers state. Going over the recommended dosage increases the risk of frosting.

But what if the dye has no brand or is food-grade? For these, the dosages for candles are usually not specified. In this case, we’ll figure it out through testing.

How to test the dye dosage step by step?

Test the dosages as follows:
• Start with the smallest dosage — 0.2%. If there is frosting caused by an increased concentration of additives (at this point, you should already know the pouring temperature of your wax that avoids frosting), reduce the dosage. If there is no frosting, the dye blends well, and you can increase the dosage.
• 0.5%
• 0.7%
• 1%
• 2%

This will help you determine how vibrant the color result can be with your dye.

Also, consider the maximum amount of additives the wax can handle.

Many manufacturers specify this in the wax recommendations. It typically looks like this:
“Additive load
Maximum load — 12%, adding more may cause surface issues.”

By “additive load,” we mean not just the fragrance, but the combined dosage of fragrance and dye. For example, you can add 10% fragrance and 1% dye to this wax, and it will be within the recommended limits.

When to add the dye to the wax?

The exact moment of adding the dye is not as critical. You can add the dye to the wax at any point — before heating, during melting, or at the maximum temperature.

The important factor is bringing the wax to the maximum heating temperature. At this temperature, the dye dissolves into the wax and fully blends with it.

Adding dye can also affect the wick choice in candles. The dye makes the candle more heat-resistant. Therefore, when working with dye, keep this in mind and test candles made with dye.

Working with Dyes

General guidelines for working with dyes

Step 3. Preparing the Wick and Mold

1. Cut the required length of the wick

Measure the length of the mold and cut the wick with some extra length.

2. Dip the wick in wax and let it harden

The wick should be soaked in wax to help it burn better. Simply dip it into the melted wax, let the excess wax drip off, and set the wick aside until it hardens.

Is it necessary to dip the wick in wax? - Open

3. Thread the wick through the mold

I recommend using needles with a wide eye or an awl, as these tools won’t damage the mold.

How to create a hole for the wick in a silicone mold? - Open

4. Attach the mold with rubber bands and straighten the seams if the mold has a cut.

If you skip the rubber bands, the wax might start leaking through gaps during pouring. However, if you use too many rubber bands and they press too tightly on the mold, the candle may turn out crooked.

How to align the seams on the mold? - Open

If the wick is not dipped in wax, it may not light at all or might light and then immediately go out.

I recommend doing this every time. It really helps prevent unpredictable behavior from the wick.

How to Conveniently Dip the Wick: You can prepare the wick in advance. For example, melt 20-30 grams of pure wax just for dipping the wick and prepare about 10 meters at once. Afterward, you can coil it back up and store it until the next candle pouring.

dip the wick in wax

Is It necessary to dip the wick in wax?

A hole in a silicone mold can be made with an awl or a large needle.

I have both an awl with a hook and a needle. In my opinion, the needle is much more convenient, as its eye is larger, making it easier to thread the wick through. If you find an awl with a larger eye, you can buy that instead.

As a last resort, you can use large skewers with a sharp tip or chopsticks, but this could damage the silicone mold, which might not be cheap. So, I recommend using a proper tool. If you keep threading the wick with your finger or something else, the mold will start tearing, leaving marks on the candle.

How to Make the Hole?

Don’t rely on the external center of the mold, always check from the inside. If you’re not sure, pour the candle without the wick, then check where you would place it. After that, find the same spot inside the mold and make the hole by threading the needle from the inside out, not the other way around.

If the hole is not perfectly centered and the wick touches the wall when pulled, don’t worry. Just don’t pull the wick tight right away. Secure it in the wick holder, then gently pull it until it hangs freely, following the contours of the walls of mold.

Hole for the Wick

How to make a hole for the wck in a silicone mold?

Don’t focus on the top of the mold, because even if you close it perfectly at the top, it can still be misaligned inside. It’s better to do the following:

First, secure the mold with rubber bands to prevent the wax from spilling out when you pour it. When it comes to rubber bands, it’s best not to skimp, but also not overdo it. If you skimp, the wax might spill through the gaps when pouring. If you overdo it and the bands are too tight, the candle will come out crooked.

Second, it’s better to run your finger along the seam from the inside and gently press to align it.

It’s best to do this step without gloves, as it helps you feel the mold better.

Before pouring, all that’s left to do is to insert the wick and secure it with a wick centering tool or an alternative.

Align the Seams

How to properly align the seams on a silicone mold

Step 4. Method 1. Creating the Marble Effect

1. Pour the cooled wax, at the pouring temperature, into the mold until it’s full.

2. Let it sit in the mold for 1-3 minutes. The longer the wax sits, the thicker the first layer becomes.

3. Pour the wax back into the vessel.

4. Let the silicone mold with the wax on the walls harden.

Do not move or touch the mold.

5. Reheat the wax in the vessel to the maximum heating temperature.

What is the maximum heating temperature, and how do you determine it? - Open

6. Add the dye to the melted wax.

The dye should be of a contrasting, bright color to make the marble effect stand out better.

Recommendations for adding dye - Open

7. Cool the wax to the recommended pouring temperature.

How to determine the optimal pouring temperature - Open

8. Pour the colored wax into the mold.

It is important not to pour the wax too hot, as it may melt the existing layers in the mold.

Step 4. Method 2. Creating a Marble Pattern

1. Pour the melted wax into two separate containers.

You can choose the ratio yourself.

2. Add dye to one of the containers.

Recommendations for adding dye - Open

3. Cool the wax in both containers to the pouring temperature.

How to determine the optimal pouring temperature? - Open

The temperature in both containers should be the same, with a maximum difference of 5 degrees.

4. Alternately pour the colored and uncolored wax into the mold from both containers.

5. Then, pour the colored wax into the uncolored wax and mix gently with a stick (or thermometer).

Do not mix to full uniformity to preserve the pattern.

6. Fill the mold to the top with wax.

Unlike container candles, topping up pillar candles has its own nuances.

Sometimes, when topping up, you might get a step-like effect or air bubbles. - Open

На готовой свече это можно только закамуфлировать или переплавить свечу.

How to Avoid This?

1. Pour the wax at a higher temperature to ensure the old and new waxes “bind” together.

1. 2. If your wax is sensitive to high temperatures and causes frosting, slightly melt the old wax by heat gun before topping up, and then pour the new wax at comfortable temperatures where it doesn’t cause frosting.

Top Up Pillar Candles

How to properly top up pillar candles?

Step 5. Wax Solidification

1. Leave the candle for 24 hours to fully harden and set.

Start with a longer time and gradually shorten it. This way, you will find the minimum amount of time the candle needs to solidify in your specific conditions, with your wax, and in the particular mold (the solidification time may vary depending on the mold’s size).

Wax solidification time - Open

2. Avoid drafts and sudden temperature changes in the room.

While the candle is setting, it’s important to prevent temperature fluctuations and the wax from solidifying too quickly.

Conditions for solidification - Open

Can you put candles in the fridge for faster solidification? - Open

Several factors affect the setting time of a candle:

1. Mold Size
It’s obvious that a small 70-gram candle will set faster than a 1 kg candle.
2. Wax Characteristics
Different types of wax set at different speeds.
3. Room Temperature
Candles set slower in rooms with temperatures around 27-30°C compared to rooms at 17-20°C.

But how do you figure out the minimum setting time for your candle?

The answer is simple: testing.

How to Conduct the Tests:

Start by giving the candle the maximum time to set. Approximately 10-14 hours (if you have large candles and the wax sets slowly, give it 12-16 hours). If the candle doesn’t break due to insufficient setting, you can reduce the time.

How to Distinguish Insufficient Setting from Fragility:
Fragility occurs when the wax breaks and crumbles even when fully set.
Insufficient setting can be identified by the softness or liquid consistency inside the candle.

With each pouring, you can reduce the setting time by an hour and observe how the wax behaves. Check if the candle breaks and if it’s strong enough.

Gradually, you will find the minimum time it takes for the candle to set. Knowing this will help you plan your timing and prevent broken candles. It’s especially useful for candle makers with many orders, as it allows for accurate scheduling, especially for large batches.

setting time

How to determine the setting time for a pillar candle?

While the candle is setting, it’s important to avoid rapid setting and temperature fluctuations.

The optimal room temperature is 21-25°C. This is warm enough to ensure that frosting caused by cold room temperatures won’t affect the candle.

Also, make sure there are no drafts while the candle is setting.

It’s best to place the mold on a stand or a rack, especially if you have a stone countertop. Candles cool down faster on these surfaces, which can trigger the wax crystallization process. This crystallization appears on the finished candle as a white coating, known as frosting.

Ideal Conditions

Ideal conditions for candle setting

This should be avoided if your wax is sensitive and tends to frost with even slight temperature changes.

If that’s not the case, then yes, you can. However, you shouldn’t place the candle in the refrigerator right after pouring, as you risk damaging the fridge (it’s not advisable to put hot items in the fridge). It’s better to wait until the wax starts to set slightly, then move it. During this time, don’t touch the mold with your hands, as the wax is still soft and could get pressed. Make sure to place the mold on a stand (like a coaster) before moving it to the refrigerator, without touching the form.

For example, I often had to make pillar candles quickly due to urgent orders. I work with olive wax, which allows me to do this. But container waxes didn’t forgive me for this approach. They set faster, so I didn’t find it necessary to speed up their setting process.

Refrigerator

Step 6. Removing the Candle and Inspecting for Defects

1. Remove the rubber bands from the mold, if the mold requires it.

2. Carefully remove the candle from the mold.

3. Check the candle for defects (cracks and breaks, frosting, air bubble marks, uneven bottom, etc.)

For detailed information on each defect and how to fix it, refer to the “Error Analysis” section - Open

4. Get the final result.

We wish you success in creating the perfect candle!

Candle packaging and storage - Open

When can the candle be used? - Open

Packaging and Storage

In this lesson, we will discuss how to store and pack finished candles to avoid damaging them.

Storage:

Candles should be stored in a dry place with a moderate temperature, away from heat sources, and out of direct sunlight. They should not be stored in a place that is too warm, as they may start to melt. Similarly, they should not be stored in a cold place, as this could cause the candles to crack or separate from the containers.

It’s best to store candles in a closed container. If the containers don’t have lids, cover them with something to prevent dust from getting inside, as it will be hard to clean off later.

Storing Materials for Candle Making:

Wooden wicks should always be stored in a warm and as dry as possible place. Improper storage could result in the wicks losing their ability to crackle.

Wax should be stored at room temperature in an airtight container to protect it from dust. If dust does get in, the only way to remove it is by filtering the melted wax through cheesecloth.

Here, we’ll focus not on the aesthetic aspects of your packaging, but on the safety of transportation.
We all know how delivery services handle packages, so it’s important to ensure the maximum safety of the goods from our side.

Use bubble packing wrap, honeycomb packing paper, packing peanuts, etc. But the most important thing is to fill any empty spaces in the box tightly, so that nothing moves around and the item is fully protected.

Improper Packaging

Proper Packaging

Ideally, wait at least 14 days. This is the minimum time needed to test the wick, burn time, scent throw, and other factors.

However, if you are making candles just for yourself and don’t aim for maximum burn time or fragrance strength, you can light it immediately after it has fully set.

first light

When can you light the candle after making It?

Analysis of mistakes with pillar candles

Frosting is a white spots that can appear on the surface of both container and pillar candles. Let’s break down the possible causes:
1. Too high an additive dosage. By additives, I mean fragrance oils and dyes. For example, if the maximum recommended percentage for your dye is 0.5%, but you add 1% to achieve a more vibrant color, there’s a high chance the candle will develop frosting. The same goes for fragrance oils. For instance, if the maximum recommended amount of fragrance for your wax is 10%, but you exceed this, frosting will likely appear. However, fragrance oils are a bit more complicated. Sometimes, the wax and fragrance oil simply don’t mix well. Even if you follow the recommended 10%, frosting might still show up. For example, this often happens with fragrances from the Kema supplier. How can you fix this? Try reducing the percentage of fragrance. Reducing it from 10% to 8% worked for me, without weakening the scent. However, this is situational, as each wax and fragrance combination can behave differently, so testing is essential.
2. Incomplete dissolution of additives. When adding dyes or fragrance oils, make sure to heat the wax to the maximum allowable temperature for that particular wax. For instance, the maximum heating temperature for my wax (and many others) is 85°C. When I add fragrance oil, I maintain the wax temperature at 80-85°C for about 5-10 minutes, avoiding overheating. This helps the fragrance oil fully blend with the wax.
3. Temperature issues.
• First, too high a pouring temperature. The temperature change triggers the crystallization of the wax, which results in frosting. Gradually reduce the pouring temperature in 5°C increments.
• Second, failure to maintain proper cooling conditions. Avoid trying to speed up the cooling process by putting the candle in the fridge or placing it on a cold windowsill during winter. Wax should cool at room temperature.
• Third, stirring too intensely. Stir the wax slowly and gently.
• Fourth, using cold containers. Preheat the mold before pouring. A sudden temperature change can trigger crystallization, as mentioned earlier.

Now, let’s talk about how to fix it:

If frosting appears on your pillar candle, you have two options:
1. Camouflage it. You can cover it with a design using acrylic paints, gold leaf, or large glitter.
2. Re-pour the candle, following all recommendations. For example, if it’s a dosage issue, you can add more wax to the existing mixture to adjust the percentages. If the issue lies with temperature, focus on controlling the pouring temperature, preheating the mold, and placing the candle in a warmer environment.

Frosting (White Coating)

A white coating on a candle is known as frosting. Let’s explore why it appears and how to fix it.

First, let’s discuss why dips and pits occur. This is called wax shrinkage, and it’s a normal occurrence. We can only control the extent of the shrinkage. Large pits usually appear due to pouring the wax at too high temperature. In that case, the temperature needs to be lowered. A small amount of shrinkage is normal.

How to fix it?

If the shrinkage is just surface-level and not under the wick, a topping-off process can be used.

When topping off, it’s simple: pour wax at a slightly higher temperature than usual so that the old wax “bonds” with the new. Top off without removing the candle from the mold and wait for it to set, then demold the candle. If you pour too much, just trim the excess wax with a knife when it’s slightly set but still soft. But again, do this while the candle is still in the mold.

To perfectly smooth the bottom of the candle, you may need:
1. Paper Towels – They can help smooth out small imperfections on the surface.
2. Knife – Use it to trim uneven edges, then smooth them with a towel.
3. Soap (candle) planer– This is the best tool for leveling the bottom of the pillar candle. It can smooth both large bumps and slightly refine the surface. A similar tool can be a flat cabbage slicer. Just make sure the blade doesn’t protrude too much, or too much wax will be shaved off.

If the shrinkage is under the wick, it’s best to melt it with a heat gun.

Once the wax has set, remove the candle from the mold, and if you notice the bottom is still uneven, use a cabbage slicer, a soap planer tool, a knife, or a paper towel to fix it.

Sometimes, the wick just interferes with the candle standing evenly, or you may not like that it’s visible. In any case, this can be fixed.

How to Hide the Wick in a Pillar Candle?

For this, topping off helps. When you pour the candle, don’t fill it all the way to the top, leaving some wax in the melting vessel. Once the candle has fully set, trim the wick down to the base, and then top off the candle to fill it completely.

Uneven Bottom

Uneven Bottom of a pillar candle: causes and solutions.

Yes, of course, it can.

But there’s one nuance: wax should not be remelted more than twice, on average. Every wax reacts differently to remelting — some may start behaving oddly after the first remelt, while others may react well even after three. It all depends on the type of wax you’re using.

candle broke

Can the candle be remelted if it breaks?

Sometimes, when removing the candle, you might notice bubbles, stripes, or bubbles forming stripes on the surface. This happens due to low pouring temperature and/or a cold mold. Simply increase the temperature slightly, and the stripes and bubbles will no longer appear on your candles.

When is increasing the temperature not suitable?

If your wax is inclined to frosting. In this case, you need to heat the mold well with a heat gun to prevent the wax from solidifying when it contacts the mold.

Bubbles also appear when there’s insufficient tapping. Don’t forget to tap your molds; this step is important.

A bubble can also form in complex molds with sharp or straight angles.

In such cases, no matter how much you tap, the bubble won’t go away.

What to do:
1. Pour a small amount of wax into the mold. Tilt or rotate the mold in different directions, positioning it almost horizontally.
2. If the mold is thin, fill it about halfway or just up to the point where the angle is. Then, firmly pinch the candle in that area to allow the bubbles to escape from the air pocket.

Holes in the candle

Holes in the candle: causes and how to fix it.

First, let's understand why dips and pits occur.

This is called wax shrinkage and it is normal. We can only affect the extent of this shrinkage. Really big pits appear because the pouring temperature is too high. In that case, you have to lower it. A small shrinkage is normal.

How to fix it?

If the shrinkage does not go under the wick, but purely superficial, then you will be fine with dosalivka.

In the case of refilling everything is clear: we simply pour wax at a temperature slightly higher than usual, so that the old wax “melds” with the new. We do not pull the candle out of the mold and wait for it to harden, and then we demold. If you overfill, you simply cut the wax off with a knife when it's slightly hardened but still soft. But again, when the candle is still in shape.

If the shrinkage goes under the wick, it's better to melt it with a hair dryer.

The wax has solidified, we pull the candle out of the mold and we may find that the candle still doesn't have an even bottom. Then we can use a cabbage grater or a special grater for candles (I will attach a photo in the description), or a knife, or a paper napkin.

Candle shrinkage

Wax shrinkage: causes and how to fix?

For a faint seam, a regular paper towel will work well – simply take it and rub the seam to smooth it out.

For more pronounced seams, such as those that appear on plastic molds made in two parts, pottery tools are ideal. For example, loops and metal knives can be used.

Steps to follow:

1. Remove the excess wax: Use a knife or pottery loop tool to carefully scrape off the bulk of the excess wax.
2. Clean up the residue: After removing the excess, use a soft brush to sweep away any wax remnants from the candle to keep it clean.
3. Smooth the seam: Finally, take a paper towel and rub over the seam to smooth it further.

seam on candle

How to smooth a seam on candle?

A tightly stretched wick can cause cracks on candles, especially with dinner candles.

What to do:
When securing the wick with a wick holder, gently pull it down. Just a slight pull is enough to reduce the tension. However, the wick should not be loose or leaning to the side, especially if the mold is straight. If the candle has curves, the wick should follow them to ensure even burning.

Tightened Wick

Tightened wick: what are the risks and how to do it correctly?

It’s common for a candle to burn unevenly, with some pieces breaking off without melting. Is this normal?

Yes, it’s perfectly normal, especially with irregularly shaped molds or ones with protruding elements. For example, if a shoulder of a female or male torso candle falls off during burning, it’s a usual occurrence.

However, if this bothers you, there are ways to adjust it. As mentioned in the lesson on wick selection for pillar candles, you can choose the burning pattern. You could select a larger wick, which will allow the flame to melt a larger diameter of wax, but keep in mind that this might cause the candle to burn faster.

This lesson addresses the issue of small pieces falling off the candle. If a large part of the candle remains untouched, it’s a good idea to use a bigger wick.

pieces to fall off the candle

Is it normal for pieces to fall off the candle during burning?

Don’t confuse cracks with shrinkage.

First, make sure the issue is with the wax and not the temperature.
1. Avoid letting the candle cool near windows, especially if it’s cold outside, or near air conditioning. Also, keep the candle away from drafts.
2. Try pouring the wax at a lower temperature.
3. Ensure the cracks aren’t caused by the demolding process. Check if the cracks appear before you remove the candle from the mold, not during the removal.

If you’ve followed these steps and the wax still cracks, try the following:
1. Add a small amount of container wax to the pillar wax. The exact amount can’t be specified, as different waxes react differently. Manufacturers and sellers suggest different dosages, typically between 5% and 20%. Test and find the best ratio for your wax.
2. Add a small amount of beeswax to the wax. Beeswax makes pillar wax more flexible. The recommended amount is between 1% and 10%.

wax cracks in the mold

What to do if the wax cracks in the mold during cooling?

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