Candlemakers work with different types of wax, each with their own favorites. Every wax has its pros and cons, as each candlemaker has their own criteria for comfortable work.

In this lesson, I’ll talk about the most popular container waxes in the candle-making world.

Golden Wax 464
Perhaps the most popular soy wax on the market. It’s highly favored for its excellent scent throw. However, since it’s pure soy, it’s not the easiest to work with. But it’s not hard to find a good technique for it.

Kerax Coconut Container Wax
An excellent wax for both container candles and massage candles. Its scent throw is a bit weaker than Golden Wax.

Tefawax S41
A budget-friendly alternative to Golden Wax. It has a very good scent throw but is a bit tricky to work with in its pure form. I blend it with other waxes.

Great waxes with good tops and scent throw: Nature Wax C-3, Nature Wax C-310, Ecosoya CB Advanced, EcoCoco Container.

Don’t worry if none of these waxes are available in your region or if shipping is expensive. You can find a way to work with almost any wax, and I’ll help you with that.

Top container waxes

Best waxes for container candles

The main goal of the wick in container candles is to melt the wax all the way to the edges.

If the wick is too small, it will create an unsightly tunnel, and the wax will never melt to the sides. A low-powered wick also affects the scent throw, which will be much lesser in this case. However, there is another extreme — if the wick is too large for the container, the sides of the container will overheat, and the glass could crack.

How to choose the right wick?

First, we need to know the diameter of the container. For example, if your container has a diameter of 6 cm, we need to find a wick that is suitable for a 6 cm diameter container. To help with this, we’ve attached a grid to this lesson. It includes the most popular wax brands and pre-waxed wicks with wick holders.

Open the grid

How to use the grid


On the left, the types of waxes are listed vertically. At the top of the grid, you’ll find the diameter sizes in millimeters. Below each diameter, you’ll see wicks that are suitable for a specific wax and container size. Always focus on the diameter — the volume in milliliters doesn’t matter.

As stated in the grid, it is not a precise instruction, but more of a recommendation. You need to test everything yourself to get your perfect candle.

What to do if your wax or wick is not listed in the grid?

Look for a wax similar to yours (soy or coconut), buy several different wicks that fit your container diameter, and test them.

You don’t need to buy all the wicks listed in a specific cell. For example, for a specific wax and container diameter, the following wicks are listed:

FD 3x10
FD 3x12, FD 3X14, FD 3x16, RS2,
RS1,
RRD50,
RRD55
STABILO 12
STABILO 14

You don’t have to buy all the wicks. Just pick a few different sizes from the same brand, like 4 wicks of different sizes from FD, and then test which one fits best for your combination of wax, fragrance, and container.

We have a separate lesson on the platform that explains how to conduct the tests.

How to know if the wick is the right one:

The wax has melted at a normal rate. The wick melts the wax to the edges within 40 minutes to 2 hours (depending on your wax) and doesn’t create a tunnel.
Additionally, the wax pool depth doesn’t exceed 1 cm.

wick

How to choose a cotton wick for container candles?

Wooden Wick

How to choose a wooden wick for container candles?

How to choose a wooden wick for container candles?

Approximate recommendations for wooden wick width:
• 8 mm for candles with a diameter of 3 - 5 cm
• 12.5 mm for candles with a diameter of 5 - 7 cm
• 14 mm for candles with a diameter of 6 - 8 cm

How to use them?

Let’s go through the process step-by-step. I visit a marketplace. Why specifically a marketplace? Often, the melting diameters aren’t listed there. In candle-making stores, they often have tables that make the process much easier, but not every country has these specialized stores. So, let’s consider a more complex example. I visit marketplace and search for a wooden wick. I check the description and see that there are no manufacturer recommendations. So, what should we do next? We check the wick size. For example, it’s 13 x 140. What do these numbers mean? The first number is the width of the wick in millimeters, and the second is its height. The height isn’t that important because it can always be trimmed, but the width is essential for choosing the right wick for your container. We compare the wick size with the recommended sizes. For example, if your container has a diameter of 6 cm, based on the chart, a 12-13 mm wick would be suitable. Now, we proceed to testing.

How to store wooden wicks?
Wooden wicks should be stored in a dry place. Otherwise, even the most crackling wicks will lose their sound.

You can store them in a regular plastic bag and add a silica gel packet to absorb moisture. You can buy silica gel on any marketplace.

Once the wicks arrive, you need to test them, and they turn out to be too small. Don’t rush to be disappointed and order new ones. Try doubling them up. What does this mean? We need to cut two equal lengths of the wick and place them in one wick holder, then test again.

If that doesn’t work, order larger wicks and test again.

In short, any containers can be used, but each type has its own nuances. Let’s break it down in this lesson.

For beginners who don’t yet have enough experience with wicks and testing, it’s best to start with glasses with thick walls (at least 0.3 mm). They are less likely to crack under high heat in a short period of time.

But what about glasses and containers with thin glass?

They can certainly be used for candles. However, there are a few important points to consider:
• The most important one is to conduct thorough testing. When testing, make sure to burn the candle for 4 hours (the maximum amount of time a candle should burn at once) to check its safety.
• Be sure to inform the customer about the safety rules, specifically:
a) The candle should not burn for more than 4 hours at a time;
b) The wick should be trimmed to 0.5 cm before each lighting to ensure the flame is not too large.

Containers for Candles

What containers are suitable for container candles

Each wax has its own maximum scent load percentage, which should be obtained from the seller. Typically, it ranges from 8-10%, sometimes up to 12%. The dosage depends on how strong you want the fragrance in your candle. I recommend adding at least 5-6%, otherwise, the scent will be barely noticeable. If your fragrance is very strong, you may not need to use the maximum percentage.

In any case, you must test each fragrance, its compatibility with your wax, and the dosage. This is the only way to determine the ideal combination for your needs.

If the seller does not provide any recommendations, you need to conduct your own tests. As mentioned above, the scent load for wax typically ranges from 8-10%, sometimes up to 12%. Start with a lower dosage—try adding 8% fragrance. Then, try 10%. Observe how the wax reacts: does it show frosting or other imperfections? Usually, adding more does not increase the scent strength, but you must verify this through testing.

For my wax, the maximum scent load is 10%. I add 8% fragrance. In my case, with my wax and fragrances, adding more is unnecessary, as the maximum scent is already achieved with this dosage.

Scent Load

Candle Wax Calculator

How to measure the amount of wax needed for a candle?

We will talk about how to measure the amount of wax needed for a candle.

How to Use Candle Calc:

Let’s break it down with a container candle example:

The first tab we need is the wax weight tab. In this section, we can find the wax weight. There are two lines: vessel fill and wax.

To do this, we need a candle calculator. I use the app “Candle Calc”. Here’s how it looks in the App Store:
Download link for iOS, Download link for Android

(Видео-инструкция)

The container capacity is usually known, but if you’re unsure, you can weigh the container on a pocket scale, then fill it with water to the brim. This will give you the capacity of your container.

Let’s say the container holds 200 ml; this is the number you’ll enter into the vessel fill field.

Next, the app will calculate the amount of wax you need. If you’re making a non-scented container candle, you’re done! Just melt 166 grams of wax.

Here, the wax amount is already automatically filled in. Next, we need to figure out how much fragrance oil is needed. Each wax has a different maximum fragrance load — from 8% to 12%. You can find the exact limit for your wax from the seller. For example, my wax has a max load of 10%, but I want to use a bit less.

I enter 8% in the FO field, and the app will provide two new values: wax for the batch (the amount of wax you need to melt) and FO for the batch (the amount of fragrance oil to add).

5) Vessel count.

For example, if you need to make a batch of 10 candles, you enter 10 in the vessels field, and the app will show you the new values — how much wax and fragrance oil you need for that quantity of candles.

The calculator may not work well for pillar candles, as it calculates wax quantity with a buffer, not filling the container completely. If you fill the mold with water and weigh it, you’ll get only an approximate value. This is especially important if you’re using colorants, as getting the right color shade with precise filling can be tricky.

For pillar candles, it’s safer to melt 15-30% more wax than needed, with a generous margin. Once the candle cools and hardens, weigh it to get the exact amount of wax used in grams. This will give you the correct amount for your next batch.

About additive load:
Each wax has its own fragrance load capacity. Generally, this is up to 10%, but some waxes allow up to 8% or even 12%. For some waxes, the total load includes both fragrance and dye, and there is a limit on the total percentage for both. This means that the combined weight of the fragrance and dye should not exceed 10% (for example, the maximum load can be different). For instance, if you add 0.5% dye, you can use a maximum of 9.5% fragrance oil from the wax weight, etc.

How much to add?
As mentioned above, for most waxes, the maximum load is 10%. You can add up to that amount, but I usually use no more than 8-9%. Adding more doesn’t necessarily increase the fragrance intensity. The fragrance oil is wasted.

If the fragrance oil is very strong, and you want a more subtle, barely noticeable aroma, you can add 6%. This is the minimum. Beyond this, the fragrance usually becomes undetectable.

Summary: Add fragrance at approximately 6-9%.

These are general guidelines; exact dosages for each fragrance and wax should be determined based on your specific wax and fragrance.

How to weigh fragrance oil?
Always weigh fragrance oil in grams. If you think you can estimate by eye, think again. Milliliters (which are what we typically measure in bottles) do not equal grams. Always use a scale to weigh it.

Fragrance Load Proportions

Fragrance load proportions and how to weigh It

Why should wax be melted with steam? Can you place the melting vessel directly into water?
There is no strict rule about this. The main advantage of using a double boiler is convenience. What I mean is that when you melt wax with steam, you don’t have to be nearby all the time. Steam melts the wax more evenly.

When the vessel is in water, you need to stir the wax constantly. This is because the wax at the sides and bottom of the vessel melts faster and may overheat, while the wax in the center may remain solid.

What are the risks of overheating wax?
It can alter its properties (causing uneven tops or excessive brittleness inside), and it may lose or reduce its scent throw.

So, if you can’t stir the wax every minute or two while melting, it’s better to get a vessel that doesn’t touch the water.

What about the microwave?
I’m against melting wax in the microwave for several reasons:
1. Overheating wax — In the microwave, you’ll need to take the wax out every 10-15 seconds. This only makes the process more complicated, in my opinion.
2. Health concerns — According to sanitary standards, any vessels used to melt wax or fragrance oils should not be used for food or drink.
3. Wax residue — If you melt wax with fragrance oil in the microwave, you may later notice the fragrance in food that you place in the same microwave.

Points 2 and 3 can be addressed with a separate microwave for wax, but point 1 is something you can’t really solve. However, if you don’t mind taking the wax out every 10 seconds to stir it, and you have a separate microwave, then you can use it.

Microwave

Can wax be melted in the microwave?

Melting Point is the temperature at which your wax starts to melt. Usually, it is the lowest number on the packaging. It’s important to know this temperature for the following reasons:
1. If you live in a warm region, it’s important to pay attention to this parameter when choosing a wax. For example, if temperatures reach up to +35°C, coconut wax or some pure soy waxes might not be suitable. You’ll need to look for additives or a different wax if you plan to transport your candles.
2. If you want to make massage candles, for example, if you want to replace coconut wax with soy. In this case, you’ll need to find a wax with a melting point up to 45-47°C.

Pouring Temperature is the temperature range recommended by the manufacturer for pouring the wax. As you already know from other lessons, these numbers are approximate and should be fine-tuned through testing. However, it’s a good starting point for finding the ideal pouring temperature for your specific conditions. If the manufacturer doesn’t provide this information, it’s not a problem. In this case, rely on the melting point. For example, if it’s 45°C, try pouring at 60°C. If you get frosting and significant shrinkage, lower the pouring temperature. If you see bubble streaks, raise the temperature. Always test with a 5°C increment.

Maximum Heating Temperature is the temperature beyond which the wax should not be heated. It’s important to know this for adding fragrance oils and dye. For example, if your wax has a maximum heating temperature of 85°C, add the fragrance oil/dye at temperatures between 80-85°C and mix thoroughly at this range until fully blended.

If your supplier doesn’t provide any information on the wax, you’ll have to figure it out through testing.

Melting Point Testing is straightforward. For hot regions, leave the candle outside or under the sun and observe it for a couple of hours. For massage candles, test like this: put a small amount of wax in a vessel, place it in the double boiler, and press the thermometer probe to the bottom. When you see the wax starting to melt, note the temperature of the vessel. If the wax starts to melt above 55°C, it’s better not to use it. If the temperature is below 55°C, you can cautiously test it. Don’t pour it directly; instead, take a small amount with a cotton swab and apply it to the skin. If it doesn’t burn, try pouring it onto a dish or lid and dip your finger in. If it still doesn’t burn, carefully try it on your hand, just a small amount. Usually, suppliers do provide the melting point, though.

Pouring Temperature Testing steps were outlined above.

Testing the Maximum Heating Temperature: Heat different portions of wax to 85°C, 80°C, and 75°C, then let them cool down and pour the candles. Observe their properties (scent throw, tops, porosity inside). Keep in mind, uneven tops can be caused by other factors as well.

Numbers on the Packaging

Numbers on the packaging: what do they mean and how to use it?

In this lesson, we’ll cover all the nuances of working with dyes in various wax products — pillar and container candles, wax melts, and sachets.

Dosages

First and foremost, we refer to the manufacturer’s recommended dosage for the dye. For example, for Bekro dyes, the dosage ranges from 0.05% to 0.5% of the wax weight. For Candle Science dyes, it’s between 0.016% and 0.032%. This is what the manufacturers state. Going over the recommended dosage increases the risk of frosting.

But what if the dye has no brand or is food-grade? For these, the dosages for candles are usually not specified. In this case, we’ll figure it out through testing.

How to test the dye dosage step by step?

Test the dosages as follows:
• Start with the smallest dosage — 0.2%. If there is frosting caused by an increased concentration of additives (at this point, you should already know the pouring temperature of your wax that avoids frosting), reduce the dosage. If there is no frosting, the dye blends well, and you can increase the dosage.
• 0.5%
• 0.7%
• 1%
• 2%

This will help you determine how vibrant the color result can be with your dye.

Also, consider the maximum amount of additives the wax can handle.

Many manufacturers specify this in the wax recommendations. It typically looks like this:
“Additive load
Maximum load — 12%, adding more may cause surface issues.”

By “additive load,” we mean not just the fragrance, but the combined dosage of fragrance and dye. For example, you can add 10% fragrance and 1% dye to this wax, and it will be within the recommended limits.

When to add the dye to the wax?

The exact moment of adding the dye is not as critical. You can add the dye to the wax at any point — before heating, during melting, or at the maximum temperature.

The important factor is bringing the wax to the maximum heating temperature. At this temperature, the dye dissolves into the wax and fully blends with it.

Adding dye can also affect the wick choice in candles. The dye makes the candle more heat-resistant. Therefore, when working with dye, keep this in mind and test candles made with dye.

Working with Dyes

General guidelines for working with dyes

Let’s break it down in this lesson!

Pros of wick stickers:
• Easy to use
• No need to purchase additional equipment

Cons of wick stickers:
• Sometimes they arrive dry, stick initially, but then come off when centering the wick
• If you pour wax at a high temperature (some waxes require high pouring temperatures, while lower temperatures can cause the top to ripple), the stickers may easily come off

Pros of hot glue:
• More reliable than stickers. It sticks strongly.
• No risk of drying out

Cons of hot glue:
• You need to buy extra equipment — a hot glue gun
• A little more difficult to use. You need to practice a bit

I’ve used both, and I personally prefer hot glue. Since the main job of both stickers and glue is to secure the wick, the glue definitely wins in terms of reliability.

What’s better to choose

wick stickers or a glue gun?

While the candle is setting, it’s important to avoid rapid setting and temperature fluctuations.

The optimal room temperature is 21-25°C. This is warm enough to ensure that frosting caused by cold room temperatures won’t affect the candle.

Also, make sure there are no drafts while the candle is setting.

It’s best to place the mold on a stand or a rack, especially if you have a stone countertop. Candles cool down faster on these surfaces, which can trigger the wax crystallization process. This crystallization appears on the finished candle as a white coating, known as frosting.

Ideal Conditions

Ideal conditions for candle setting

This should be avoided if your wax is sensitive and tends to frost with even slight temperature changes.

If that’s not the case, then yes, you can. However, you shouldn’t place the candle in the refrigerator right after pouring, as you risk damaging the fridge (it’s not advisable to put hot items in the fridge). It’s better to wait until the wax starts to set slightly, then move it. During this time, don’t touch the mold with your hands, as the wax is still soft and could get pressed. Make sure to place the mold on a stand (like a coaster) before moving it to the refrigerator, without touching the form.

For example, I often had to make pillar candles quickly due to urgent orders. I work with olive wax, which allows me to do this. But container waxes didn’t forgive me for this approach. They set faster, so I didn’t find it necessary to speed up their setting process.

Refrigerator

Packaging and Storage

In this lesson, we will discuss how to store and pack finished candles to avoid damaging them.

Storage:

Candles should be stored in a dry place with a moderate temperature, away from heat sources, and out of direct sunlight. They should not be stored in a place that is too warm, as they may start to melt. Similarly, they should not be stored in a cold place, as this could cause the candles to crack or separate from the containers.

It’s best to store candles in a closed container. If the containers don’t have lids, cover them with something to prevent dust from getting inside, as it will be hard to clean off later.

Storing Materials for Candle Making:

Wooden wicks should always be stored in a warm and as dry as possible place. Improper storage could result in the wicks losing their ability to crackle.

Wax should be stored at room temperature in an airtight container to protect it from dust. If dust does get in, the only way to remove it is by filtering the melted wax through cheesecloth.

Here, we’ll focus not on the aesthetic aspects of your packaging, but on the safety of transportation.
We all know how delivery services handle packages, so it’s important to ensure the maximum safety of the goods from our side.

Use bubble packing wrap, honeycomb packing paper, packing peanuts, etc. But the most important thing is to fill any empty spaces in the box tightly, so that nothing moves around and the item is fully protected.

Improper Packaging

Proper Packaging

You’ve probably noticed that candle makers often write the burn time on their candles.

How can you calculate it?

As you know, a candle shouldn’t be burned for more than 4 hours at a time. But to calculate the burn time, you don’t need to burn the whole candle. One hour is enough.

Steps for calculation:
1. Place the candle on a pocket scale and record the weight.
2. Light the candle for one hour.
3. Weigh the candle again after an hour.
4. Subtract the weight after burning from the original weight.
5. Divide the initial weight of the candle by the number from step 4.
6. You will get the burn time in hours.

Example:

Let’s say your candle weighs 100 grams. Before lighting it, you weigh the candle with the container, and the total weight is 230 grams. After an hour of burning, the weight drops to 225 grams. This means that 5 grams of wax burned in one hour. Now divide 100 by 5. The result is 20 hours.

So, the total burn time of your candle would be 20 hours.

These numbers are just examples, and your results may vary.

burn time of container candle

In this lesson, we will discuss how to find the ideal candle recipe that works specifically for your materials, conditions, and personal preferences.

What is the perfect candle?
The perfect candle is one that has a strong fragrance, looks visually pleasing, burns evenly, doesn’t smoke, and is safe to use. To combine all these elements in one product, testing is essential. This includes testing wicks, fragrances, dyes, and so on.

How to conduct testing:

When we make a candle, we need to leave it for two weeks and document all details. For example, if you are using Kerasoy wax, Mango and Orange fragrance at 9%, and Stabilo 20 wick, and poured at 46°C. Over these two weeks, the wax will gain its full strength, and the fragrance will intensify. After the two-week period, you can light the candle.

Why you shouldn’t skip the curing process:

The wax is different after 6 hours, 24 hours, and a week of curing, and it will burn differently as well. This means that the same wick can behave differently depending on the curing time.

Let’s imagine this situation: you make a candle, test it the next day, and it burns beautifully to the edges. Everything is great. But then you make several candles in advance and leave them to cure for a month, waiting for sale. When the candle is finally lit by a customer, it doesn’t burn all the way to the edges, but forms a “well” in the center. This affects the fragrance throw and the appearance, and the customer will likely be disappointed. This is the last thing you want.

So, never skip the curing process. It’s the only way to be sure about your product.

What to check when the candle has cured:
1. Does the wick melt the wax to the edges? How long does it take? How hot does the container get?
Before testing the wick, always trim it to 0.5 cm. If the wick is too long, the flame will be too large, causing the container to overheat and making the test inaccurate. If the wick is trimmed too short, it may sink, which could be misinterpreted as the wick being too small for the container, although it might actually be the right size.
The wick should melt the wax to the edges in at least 40 minutes, but no more than 1.5-2 hours. If it doesn’t, use a bigger wick (or try doubling it, if it’s a wooden wick). Wait for 2 weeks and test again. If you don’t want to wait, you can purchase several wicks for different diameters and test them all in one go.

As for the container’s temperature – it shouldn’t overheat too much. Yes, any candle will get hot when lit, but remember that glass can break under excessive heat. It’s important to consider not just the wick size, but also the thickness of the container walls. Thin-walled containers heat up quickly, which can make them unsafe. On the other hand, thicker containers are much safer. For safety, don’t burn any container candle for more than 4 hours at a time.
Which containers are best for candles - link.
2. How does the candle smell?
To test this, leave the room for 20-30 minutes and then return to the space where the candle was lit. Assess the fragrance from a distance and up close to see how strong it is. Another popular method among candle makers is the BLO method (more details in this lesson [link]).

If the candle doesn’t smell, don’t worry. It could be due to the fragrance. Not all fragrances perform well in candles. It could also be the wax, so avoid purchasing large quantities right away. This applies to everything – wax, fragrance oils, wicks. It’s always best to buy small quantities, test them, and only buy larger amounts once you’re happy with the results. This will save you a lot of money.

3. Did frosting appear over time on the candle?
Sometimes, frosting doesn’t appear immediately but only after some time. In this case, you need to adjust the temperatures you were working with or check the dosages of your dye/fragrance oils. However, this is often normal. Natural waxes are prone to crystallization, and this is something that can’t be completely avoided. But if this happens with every candle, then adjustments need to be made to the formula.

These are the minimum parameters you should check when testing container candles.

In many lessons, I mention that you should trim the wick to 0.5 cm. Why is this necessary?

The main reason is that if you don’t trim the wick before testing, you risk missing the correct wick. For example, even a suitable wick, if not trimmed properly, will melt the wax pool faster than it should. For instance, a properly trimmed wick would melt the wax in 50 minutes to an hour, but an untrimmed one will melt it in 30 minutes because the flame is too large. If you set the wick to a smaller size and don’t trim it to the recommended length, it may sink into the wax because it’s not suitable for the candle. This can lead to confusion. To avoid these issues, always trim the wick.

Without trimming the wick, the candle may emit a burnt smell. This happens because soot builds up on the wick after burning. If the candle is extinguished improperly (by suffocating it with a snuffer or lid), the soot buildup increases as the wick continues to smolder. Therefore, always trim the wick to 0.5 cm before lighting the candle.

Pillar candles burn much faster. If the candle is periodically extinguished, the wick is trimmed, and then relit, the burning time can be significantly extended. I include this recommendation for clients, but I conduct tests without trimming the wick, as not every client will take these actions, so it’s best to find the minimal burning time.

The Perfect Candle Recipe

How to find the ideal candle recipe that works specifically for your materials?

A white coating on a candle is known as frosting. Let’s explore why it appears and how to fix it.

Frosting is a white spots that can appear on the surface of both container and pillar candles. Let’s break down the possible causes:
1. Too high an additive dosage. By additives, I mean fragrance oils and dyes. For example, if the maximum recommended percentage for your dye is 0.5%, but you add 1% to achieve a more vibrant color, there’s a high chance the candle will develop frosting. The same goes for fragrance oils. For instance, if the maximum recommended amount of fragrance for your wax is 10%, but you exceed this, frosting will likely appear. However, fragrance oils are a bit more complicated. Sometimes, the wax and fragrance oil simply don’t mix well. Even if you follow the recommended 10%, frosting might still show up. For example, this often happens with fragrances from the Kema supplier. How can you fix this? Try reducing the percentage of fragrance. Reducing it from 10% to 8% worked for me, without weakening the scent. However, this is situational, as each wax and fragrance combination can behave differently, so testing is essential.
2. Incomplete dissolution of additives. When adding dyes or fragrance oils, make sure to heat the wax to the maximum allowable temperature for that particular wax. For instance, the maximum heating temperature for my wax (and many others) is 85°C. When I add fragrance oil, I maintain the wax temperature at 80-85°C for about 5-10 minutes, avoiding overheating. This helps the fragrance oil fully blend with the wax.
3. Temperature issues.
• First, too high a pouring temperature. The temperature change triggers the crystallization of the wax, which results in frosting. Gradually reduce the pouring temperature in 5°C increments.
• Second, failure to maintain proper cooling conditions. Avoid trying to speed up the cooling process by putting the candle in the fridge or placing it on a cold windowsill during winter. Wax should cool at room temperature.
• Third, stirring too intensely. Stir the wax slowly and gently.
• Fourth, using cold containers. Preheat the container before pouring. A sudden temperature change can trigger crystallization, as mentioned earlier.

Now let’s talk about how to fix it:

If frosting appears on the top of your container candle, you can fix it with a topping-off process, but be sure to follow all the recommendations.

If the frosting appears on the sides of the container candle or on a pillar candle, the candle will need to be remelted, following all the recommendations. For example, if the issue is related to the percentage of additives, you can add more wax to the existing mixture to bring the percentage back to normal.

Remember, frosting on candles made from natural wax is a common occurrence. It can appear even after months, even if the candle was perfect initially.

Frosting (White Coating)

A white coating on a candle is known as frosting. Let’s explore why it appears and how to fix it.

In this lesson, we’ll discuss why waves, roughness, cracks, and streaks appear on the surface of a container candle, whether this is normal, how to avoid it, and how to fix it if it happens.

Causes:

1. Wax and Additive Conflict
2. Too Fast Cooling/Temperature Fluctuations
3. Failure to Follow Temperature Guidelines (for adding additives, maximum heating temperature, pouring)
4. Too Intense Stirring
5. Pouring Too Quickly into the Container

Is it normal for unevenness to appear? Yes. Natural waxes (especially pure soy) are trickier to work with than paraffin, but with any wax, you can learn to work around it.

Which “defect” is normal and doesn’t require fixing?

Small cracks near the wick are perfectly normal. This is just how the wax settles. If you don’t like how it looks and want a perfectly smooth surface, you can gently heat the top locally with a heat gun. There’s no need to heat the entire top.

How to Prevent an Uneven Top

1. If you have a problematic fragrance oil (for example, with Kema fragrances, the tops often become wavy), keep the wax heated at 80-85°C (or the max recommended heating temperature for your wax) for about 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally with a spoon or spatula (not a stick or thermometer). This helps the wax and fragrance oil blend better.
2. If the top is rough, check the fragrance oil you’re using. Not all oil-based fragrances are suitable for candles.
3. Work with the pouring temperature. Natural waxes (especially pure soy) perform best with low pouring temperatures. Start with the recommended temperatures from the seller, and if they don’t work, gradually lower the temperature by 5°C steps. Some waxes also prefer higher pouring temperatures, so it’s important to test to find the ideal temperature for your wax.
4. Don’t overheat the wax. Follow the maximum heating temperature specified by the seller. Overheating the wax destabilizes it, affecting both the appearance and the scent throw.
5. Stir the wax slowly, steadily, and for a long time (3-5 minutes is minimum). Stirring too quickly or too intensively can cause uneven tops, and the fragrance oil may not mix well.
6. Pour the wax into the container in a thin stream. This helps air bubbles escape and prevents dents from forming in the candle.
7. Preheat the container before pouring to avoid temperature fluctuations.
8. Avoid quick cooling of the wax. Place the container on a rack so the bottom doesn’t touch the surface directly, especially if it’s a stone surface. This also helps prevent cracks.
9. After pouring, you can lightly tap the bottom of the container on the surface to help air bubbles rise to the top before the wax sets.

How to Fix an Already Uneven Candle Surface

1. Topping off. Leave a little wax to top off the candle. Pouring about 3mm of wax on top can fix minor imperfections. However, the topping off should be done following all the rules mentioned above. But topping off won’t work for deep indentations near the wick. For that, follow these steps: Take a skewer or thermometer (any narrow stick will do) and make holes near the wick. Then, heat the top of the candle with a heat gun to allow the melted wax to fill in those holes.

1. 2. Melt the top with a heat gun. The most important thing here is not to overheat it; otherwise, it could make things worse. Additionally, not all waxes can be fixed with a heat gun immediately. If your wax is one of those, it’s better to wait 24 hours and then fix the tops with the heat gun.

Uneven Top of Candle

Uneven Top of a Container Candle: Causes and How to Fix It

What are wet spots, are they a defect, why do they appear, and how can you fix them?

Wet spots (also called “pull-away marks”) occur when the wax detaches from the sides of the container. They happen because wax contracts as it cools.

This is normal behavior for all natural waxes, so it’s not considered a defect.

Sometimes, wet spots can appear if you accidentally pour a mold wax into a container. If that happens, it’s almost certain that the wax will pull away from the sides and can even be pulled out of the container by the wick.

If this is not your case, and you’ve poured container wax, but it still pulls away from the sides, it may be because the candles are stored in a too-cold place. Try moving them to a warmer spot and observe how the wax reacts to the new temperature. However, even this may not help, as some waxes tend to behave this way quite frequently.

How to fix it?

If you’re using a glass container, you can fix the wet spots in two ways:
1. Method 1: Fill a saucepan with water and place the candle in it on low heat. This will allow the wax to reattach to the sides of the container. Be cautious, though, to avoid getting water inside the container and don’t let the water get too hot, as the glass may crack (especially if it’s thin).
2. Method 2: Manually heat the sides with a heat gun. Turn on the heat gun and slowly rotate the container to warm the sides.
3. Method 3: The easiest way to avoid wet spots is to switch to opaque containers. These could be matte glass jars, painted colored jars, or concrete candle lids.

You can also place a sticker around the candle to cover the entire side of the container. However, this will only work with straight-sided containers, not those with tapering or widening shapes.

wet spots

Are pull away marks normal for candles?

In this lesson, we’ll address the reasons why the fragrance oil didn’t mix properly, what problems this can cause, and how to fix it.

Why didn’t the fragrance oil mix properly?
1. Check the fragrance base: If the fragrance is water- or alcohol-based, it is not suitable for candles. Only oil-soluble fragrance oils should be used in candles.
2. Insufficient wax temperature: Oils mix into the wax at high temperatures. Make sure to heat the wax to the recommended maximum temperature. For example, if the maximum temperature for your wax is 85°C, you should add the fragrance oil when the wax reaches 80°C, and keep it in the 80-85°C range for 5-15 minutes (depending on the fragrance oil. Some oils need up to 15 minutes to fully mix). Then, cool the wax to pouring temperature before pouring it into the mold.
3. Stirring with a thermometer: It is better to stir with a spoon or spatula instead of a thermometer, as it ensures better mixing of the oil.
4. Excessive fragrance oil: Try reducing the fragrance oil dosage and observe how the wax reacts.

Why leaving a candle with unmixed fragrance oil is dangerous:

The oil may burn. If all the fragrance oil settles at the bottom of the candle, it could catch fire when the candle burns down, causing the jar to crack, and the burning oil may spill onto furniture and continue burning. This is a fire hazard.

At the very least, the candle may not emit a fragrance. Since the fragrance oil didn’t properly mix with the wax, it either sits separately or is unevenly distributed in the candle. When the candle burns, the fragrance will be uneven or absent altogether.

How to fix it:

You will need to remelt the candle, following the proper procedures as described above.

However, sometimes it’s easy to confuse a candle with “sweating” fragrance oil with one where the fragrance didn’t mix. What’s the difference?

Sometimes fragrance oil appears on the surface of a candle simply because it got too warm. Try moving the candle to a cooler place and observe if the oil reabsorbs into the wax. If it absorbs back within a couple of days, there’s no need for concern, and the candle is safe to use. If it doesn’t absorb, it’s best to remelt the candle.

fragrance oil didn’t mix

What to do if the fragrance oil didn’t mix and formed drops on the candle top?

Sometimes, wax cracks in the container or mold after setting. There are reasons for this, both within our control and related to the wax itself. Let’s explore both scenarios.

First, let’s look at the causes that depend on us:
1. Cold – This is the most common reason for cracking candles. As we know, objects expand in cold conditions, and wax is no exception. The expansion of molecules causes the wax to crack.
2. Over-tightened wick – This issue is more common with pillar candles. If you are facing wax cracking, try loosening the tension on the wick. It doesn’t need to be pulled taut like a string. Loosen it a bit, but the wick should still remain centered, without tilting to the side. Don’t confuse cracking caused by over-tightening with shrinkage. For shrinkage, see here – Open.

Now, let’s talk about the cause that is beyond our control – overly dry wax. But this isn’t a final verdict. Here’s what you can do about it:
1. Add some container wax if your pillar wax is cracking. The exact dosage varies, typically between 20% and 50%. The exact amount for your specific waxes should be determined through testing.
2. Add a more fatty wax for container candles, like coconut wax. A good, fatty coconut wax, like Kerax Coconut Container, works well.
3. Add a bit of beeswax, around 5% to 10%. Beeswax makes the wax more pliable and flexible. This method works for both container and pillar waxes.

Wax Cracking

Wax cracking: causes and solutions

On container candles, we can often observe small cracks around the wick, wax “sticking” to the wick (especially with wooden wicks), or indentations near the wick.

This is called wax shrinkage, and it is a normal occurrence. We can only influence the extent of this shrinkage. Large indentations appear due to excessively high pouring temperatures. In such cases, the temperature should be lowered. A small amount of shrinkage is normal.

How to fix it?

If the shrinkage is surface-level and doesn’t go under the wick, topping off will help.

For topping off, it’s simple: just pour wax at a slightly higher temperature than usual so that the old wax “bonds” with the new. If your wax is sensitive to temperature and gives frosting with even small changes, it’s better to slightly melt the top with a heat gun and then top off.

If the shrinkage goes under the wick, it’s best to melt it with a heat gun.

If there are small cracks around the wick or the wax is “sticking” to the wick, a heat gun will also help. It’s not necessary to melt the entire surface, just direct the air onto the wick.

To prevent shrinkage in the future, gradually lower the pouring temperature by 5 degrees until you find the perfect temperature range for your wax.

Wax Shrinkage

Wax Shrinkage: causes and how to fix It?

Just because your supplier promised a crackling sound doesn’t mean the wicks will necessarily crack. Wood is an unstable material, so even within a batch of crackling wicks, there may be a few that don’t make a sound.

In addition to the instability of the material, wicks may not crack because they’re incompatible with the wax. For example, a wick may not produce any sound in one type of wax, but it may crack loudly in another. That’s why I recommend not buying too much material in advance—it’s possible the wick and wax may not “get along.”

Can the lack of cracking be fixed?

No, the only solution is to try changing suppliers if none of the wicks in the batch crack. However, as mentioned earlier, it’s important to understand that there is no guarantee that the wicks will crack.

Can this be prevented?

Yes. If you receive wicks that should crack but don’t, proper storage is key. Wooden wicks must be kept in a dry place.

I store mine in a closed bag in a cabinet, and for extra precaution, I also place a packet of silica gel beads inside the bag. These beads absorb moisture and are available from various online marketplaces like AliExpress.

wooden wicks don’t crack

Why don’t wooden wicks crack? Can this be fixed or prevented?